My Travel Diaries

8th February. The weather was holding out. Locals had been complaining about the lack of snowfall that year. The levels of snow that had fallen would not last more than a month. Went down past the bridge. Stopped the vehicle near an outcrop and headed to the edge of the gorge.  Heights and me have an issue. My knees start melting. They quake when my kids head to the edge. Normally stay a few feet back.  There were Ibex on the opposite side. Amazing actually to see them walk down the mountain side as easily as we walk on a wide path. We stayed a while being Ibex enthusiasts before we started slowly back to the gypsy. As we were heading back, we saw a group of trackers heading purposefully towards another edge of the gorge, not too far from us.  In a bit, we were called back. The sighting had taken place. The pair of leopards up above Kibber had been disturbed by the noisy few who had reached the heights. Finding it too cold and the leopards too far for any decent photography the group h

  February 7th started extremely well. We got a wake up by our home tracker with some great news.  There were two very probable sightings we could get. The first was the one above Kibber, where the cats were supposed to move down towards a herd of Blue Sheep as they hadn't fed in a week. The second was the sighting near Langza, just off the road.  We got ready and headed up to the Gypsy. The morning shortness of breath was still there, but getting better. The veterinarian was in town. All the yak had gathered to get checked. As we watched, we learnt that the locals fed their young Yak Mustard Oil, for heat. It was either poured down the throat or fed as cakes. We were relaxed as there was no news yet from the trackers. They had left early, but had to travel a distance to reach the probable sighting areas.  After a bit we headed out. Decision was taken to head for Langza. It was further away by road. But logic was that it was simpler coming back from there than driving up. The road

6th February started clear and bright. Our home stay host was also our scanner. He had told us the previous evening, late, that the tracker who had gone towards Langza had spotted a Leopard just over the road. This was just before he started back at sunset. So, direction was clear. Our guide who had headed down to Rangrk/Lidang to see his kid the previous evening called to tell us he would be in by 0830. And, we could leave as soon as we were ready. So, depart we did. Before most other vehicles woke up. That was the other thing. Th Gypsy was a Petrol vehicle. Most other vehicles were diesel - Campers, Innova, Larger Tempo Travellers. All with chains on tyres. But to start, they had a problem. The larger vehicles kept engines running all night - it was cheaper than having a frozen fuel system, from tank to pipes to nozzles. The smaller ones had to use fire to heat their systems. Got to the junction of Langza Komic turn off. As our guide was checking with the tracker, our porter was sca

5th February was a sunny day. Clear skies. The storm had washed itself away. Our door was opened at 0645 with hot water for tea, and wood for the fire. Most important was the information that the gas had been lit in the toilet at 0600, meaning it was now warm enough to get moving. Had eggs and local bread for breakfast. Lunch was packed, a mixed rice. Stepped out of the warm homestay at 0900. Into the cold. And, it hit. The first 100 meters were difficult walking. We were gasping. Found this happen all days we were here. Once we got up to the Gypsy and stood in the sun a bit, it all settled down. Lungs woke up, got used to the cold. Legs woke up, Boidy stayed warm under the layers. The toes and finger tips refused to cooperate. They stayed cold, complaining constantly. Good in a way. Else we were having too much fun. Learnt the way our day would be. Trackers and scanners went out at 0730, towards the last known or seen direction of Snow leopards. In snow, it was simpler. They scanned f