Feb March 2026 Arunachal Pradesh
31st July 2026 is the date this is being written.
Just noticed that my blog for February March 2026 is just not there. Too far back to remember what, why, and, how.
So will just try and get it all down again. The pictures and places for sure.
Will be done in bits and pieces. Will keep publishing, so nothing written goes missing !! While traveling, writing is a natural activity. Goes extremely well with the setting sun, and, the drink. Now, recalling detail when in the right frame of mind, without a drink in hand, complex.
The plan was to fly to Dibrugarh. My daughter would have her Thar waiting for me. I would take the vehicle and drive East. The target was Kibithoo.
Got ticketing done. About a week before the trip, the Gods spoke. My daughter wanted dates changed as she was traveling out of Kaziranga when I was to be there. We worked around dates. Kept the total number of days the same. Optimized together time. My flight tickets stayed the same. Which was stupid, but, at that time no clue why we never thought of it.
And, had my hotel bookings changed. Very necessary.
I was now supposed to fly into Dibrugarh. Then take a taxi to Kaziranga. Spend a few days there. Then take the Thar East. Never struck me that I could change my ticket to land in either Guwahati or Jorhat, save travel time to Kaziranga. Should have. Because, the taxi I picked took 6 hours for 220 kilometers of 4 lane National Highway.
Anyways, couple of days later, got a call from my daughter to explain that the gear box of the Thar seemed to have an issue. Her vehicle is used in very telling terrain. Possible the issue was not noticed till it got into civilization.
Net result, it was good that the dates changed. Gave the Thar time to get fixed. The Gear Box assembly needed to be replaced. The casing had a crack, and oil had almost leaked dry. Given a little more time, the system would have seized.
Like I said, the Gods spoke !!!
25th February 2026
Took the early morning flight to Dibrugarh. It goes via Guwahati. Like I said, would have been faster to get off, and drive two hours to Kaziranga. But then, sometimes being stupid is good. Teaches you to recheck plans.
The taxi sent by from Kaziranga was waiting, so was able to get on the highway half an hour after touch down.
Then the driver for some stragne reason decided to stay at 60 kilometers per hour. Stayed patient. Then checked on speed limit. Which was 80 kmph at places, 100 kmph at others. Then asked him if he was sleepy. Bugger just grunted and accelerated, only to drop back to his normal pace.
Stopped for lunch at the first available place.
Ate well. And soon after crossed the section of the highway which had been reinforced to act as a landing strip for fighter aircraft.
Even that flat stretch did nothing to get the vehicle move faster. Enquired gently if there was a speed governor. Kept digging, hoping my harassment would improve his pace. What it did ultimately make him do was to stop by the side of the road. Go around to the back for a pit stop. When he got back, he asked me if I would drive.
Made much better speed. Made it to Kaziranga at sunset. Headlights were needed as we turned off the highway for the last couple of kilometers.
Did nothing the next day. Ate, spelt.
Continued doing just that for the next four days. After all, that was the purpose of my going to Kaziranga. To sit back, do nothing.
And, sometimes, get the initiative to go to the National Park.
Did that on the afternoons of the 27th of February and 2nd of March. With varied results, as you would see.
My journeys into the park have a specific driver. He is an extremely experienced guide, knows each bush. Only problem is that his heart and soul are in birds. And, is staying away from crowds.
Normally, I am okay with that theory. Go into the park. See birds on the way in, inside the park, and on the road back. And, very important, keep far away from normal noisy colorful tourists.
This time, I had changed my mind.
The last eight to ten trips into the park had gone without any Cat sighting. It was starting to rankle. So, the deal was TIGER.
27th February 2026
The same driver came as usual. All the other cat experts were otherwise booked. There was some large group who had booked them in advance.
Great guy, just not for what I had in mind.
Had some great sightings. Will not name the birds, as by now those reading should be able to identify them !!
That is three there.
We joined the crowd for 10 minutes. My driver could not handle the cackle any more and drove away. They had heard alarm calls. And were waiting for the Tiger to make an appearance.
Cannot complain about the sightings. Saw the Rhino, Water Buffalo, loads of Elephant, three Raptors. All in all, for a normal day in the park, it was good.
But, my Tiger sighting record had just dropped further to zero in 14 visits to Tiger Parks. That includes Manas.
Got back and told the kids that unless they got me a Tiger savvy driver, there was no way I was going back in.
Went back to my inertia. Ate well. Drank better. Played cricket !!!
Then they got a Tiger driver. His fare for the day had missed a flight.
2nd March 2026
This guy had been told. By my kids. By the senior drivers at the Park. By all. Show the man a Tiger.
So, focus was clear.
We went back to the Kohara Range. That is where sightings of Tigers had been taking place.
And, got back to where the driver had run from the crowds on the previous visit. And, news had come in that day that there had been no sightings.
So we parked. And, waited. At the stretch where ahead was a straight. Behind was a bend. Tigers crossed here to get from the tick brush to water.
What we got was this.
Most of the drivers were purely commercial. Get in, show a few animals get out. Pick up the next fare. They flew around the park.
Some, like the guys I went with ( all because my kids were there ), were serious conservationists. They knew the animals. They lived along the forest line. They saw animals from their houses, sometimes outside their houses.
The crowds kept coming in. News of the elephants herd. News of Tiger around.
My driver decided that there were now too many gypsies for even a Tiger to cross. It would wait it out.
So we drove back past the bend behind us. There were just a couple of vehicles there. Stopped with the bend behind us.
But, this was something. A break in my luck.
My driver immediately called it in to those who had warned him of a sighting necessity for me.
We sat around a while longer. Then headed out of the park.
To this. Sun was setting. It was getting past camera time.
But, my numbers were finally breaking.
The one they called the Golden Tiger. His coloring was much lighter. My camera was having major trouble focusing, what with the fading light. And, the dust being kicked up by other vehicles flying in. Could not get him as he crossed the road. Had to wait to get a shot over the vehicle behind us. While standing on the vehicle backrest.
Two sightings in a day. Brilliant. A cub. And, the Golden One.
This too was called in. Net result, I had to pick up some decent alcohol on the way back for the party that night.
The evening was fun.
Stayed quiet the next day. Enough excitement.
4th March 2026
The 6 hour drive from Dibrugarh to Kaziranga fresh in memory, decided to depart East early.
Destination was Tezu. One of the eastern most places on the plains in India, before the hills climb towards China and Myanmar. It was a 390 kilometer run.
Left just as the sun rose, around 0530. Early enough to beat the traffic on the highway. Late enough to hope for some breakfast on the highway.
Unlike TN, AP, and Karnataka, where one can get idli thosai at 0630 at any roadside shop on the highway, the North, including Kerala, works in mysterious ways.
I have had kachodi for breakfast on freezing Rajasthan mornings. I have had jelibi and milk for breakfast on Uttarakhand hillsides. I have had potatoe fries for breakfast in Gujarat. All after 0830. Have had the previous evening leftovers of appams and green peas masala for breakfast in Kerala. People just do not wake up to serve breakfast on highways. The North east is no different.
So , was tuned to having bun and tea for breakfast at the roadside.
Pleasantly surprised when passing Dibrugarh around 0900 to see a extremely clean looking place. That is 3.5 hours, against the 6 hours taken when I was driven Dibrugarh to Kaziranga.
Had also registered a hotel about 5 minutes before this eatery called Mellow Breeze. Turned out to be useful on the way back.
On the other side of the highway, towards Kaziranga, called PB's Bhojanalay. Stopped on my side off the road. Good clean vegetarian food from every corner of the country.
Entered Arunachal Pradesh. Got to the check post. Showed my Inner Line Permit. Spent some time discussing life, especially the pleasures of traveling. Left with a smile.
Reached Digaru Eco Resort by 1230. The place is about 10 kilometers before Tezu. The parking area had multiple vehicles parked. Could hear loud music. There were streamers all over. Got stopped on my way in. Was informed that there was a Holi party on, pre-registered people had to check in. Explained that I had a cottage booked.
Was directed to a shack that had two people multi tasking - serving alcohol, giving coupons for food, registering newcomers. Now they had a new task, to check me in. Fortunately, they found my name. Called in one of many runners to help with my luggage, and direct me to my cottage.
Headed behind thru the dancing crowd over a green, across a stream to what was to be my cottage for the night. Unfortunately, looked like someone else had occupied it.
Waited while the runner went back to the control shack, and the confusion was cleared. The runner came back in a while with the key to another cottage.
This had four young women occupying the porch. They had settled in with their drinks and food. They were polite, so I politely accepted their request to stay as long as I was also allowed space for a chair on the porch.
Got myself a drink and some food. Was served chicken instead of pork. Going back and doing the exchange looked to complex. Relaxed with my drink, listening to local gossip. Most of it was about two women in the group. One had a husband who drank and was possessive. The other was about a boyfriend who like the woman to dress.
The crowds were increasing as the afternoon moved on.
Finished my drink. Went in, and grabbed some sleep. In the midst of the drums making my bamboo cottage vibrate, it was tough. But think my brain got the rhythm, and used it to lull me.
Woke up to see the crowd had increased. Dancing was in full swing. Colour was being tossed in the air. Water guns were in use. The crowd was on the other side of the stream. The women had vanished. The only trace was the glasses and plates with all the mess. Pushed the lot to a corner. Moved my chair to the center of the porch.
The dance floor was full. All I could see was bouncing heads.
Had my quota of alcohol. Ate sparingly. Went to the control shack, and did the check out routine. Made sure that the gates would be open when I left.
By 2030 shut my door and went to bed. Sleep took some time, what with the increased drum beats shaking the foundation of the cottage.
5th March 2026
Woke up early and was rolling by 0530.
The place was empty. Not one human in sight. Some dogs, a few cows. The green that had been packed tight was now clear. Tables and chairs scattered on the periphery of the green.
Had to carry my luggage across the stream, then the green, then the mud track, to my vehicle. The gate was shut. Fortunately, not locked. Shut it behind me. But was positive the cows had other routes in.
Target was a place called Dong. Had to drive up the Lohit Valley. Distance was 214 kilometers. The altitude was a little over 1100 meters. But in winter the place was under snow. Now, it was dry.
The initial part of the drive went up the western side of a hill. Narrow potholed road. Got stuck behind a couple of army vehicles navigating carefully. Presumed they carried senior officers.
They gave up on me after 30 minutes of my hanging close to their tails. Moved aside politely. Saw them come up when I stopped for some photography. But road was too narrow, so moved on.
The road then dipped into a forested area. Quality of the road had improved. Was still narrow. Fortunately no heavy vehicle traffic. There were a few lorries. Worst were the bikes that came around the bend in front.
The road finally met the Lohit River. Turned North along the river as it met a new 4 lane highway that was being constructed.
Stopped almost immediately for breakfast.
The view from the road was great.
Was exulting in the 4 lane splendor. But that lasted only a short while. Back to the two lane road, with pot holes. Not to forget the road building work that was happening all along the remainder of the drive.
It left the road with river sand blowing in, multiple halts because road widening was in progress.
They were breaking down the hillside. Dragging the huge stones that came down across to clear the road. The stones would later be used to make jelly for the road topping.
Had to turn back before I got to the turnoff. The sign for the resort was facing the other way. Reached by 1330 hours.
The Dong Resort was a large construct. It put me completely off guard for what was to follow.
Finding the staff, totally two in number, took me a clear half hour. The cook was bathing. The house cleaning staff was deep inside a room.
Got my room allotted, after the staff got verification on my booking. She also asked me what rate had been set for the night. By which time, I was extremely hungry on top of being hot and dusty. That was fortunate, because the next day at breakfast heard them negotiate a price INR1000/= lower per night.
The room was large. Which was great. But, there was no water, except for a full bucket that had by some good fortune been caught by a dripping tap. There was no power. And, they did not serve lunch. And, on my drive up, I had not seen a single eatery.
So, water was a problem. Power was a problem. Lunch was not served in. They would make breakfast and dinner to order.
Much questioning gave me some input on a tea stall within walking distance. All I had to do was climb down to the river, and cross it.
Fortunately, the river was at it's lowest.
Reached the tea stall. It was well stocked. Biscuits, Maggi, tea, coffee. Food was there. But, the owner was missing.
Finally found her repairing a water pipe a few hundred meters up river.
Picked up 5 packets of Oreo chocolate biscuits and two cups of tea. Lunch was served.
Could have been worse. Ate it all.
And this, was my view.
That was the path back to the other side where my resort was located. Had to cross the sand, then climb some 50 steps to the road.
Had a couple of drinks. Slept early toying with the idea of an early return from Dong. Had planned three nights. Lack of power was no problem. Candles served the purpose. But lack of water terrified me. Not used to using paper, water was a serious necessity.
There was another issue at the back of my mind. Normally I fill tank as I enter the night halt location. Unfortunately had not sighted a fuel station for ever. And, the next one was ahead at Kibithoo, where I was to go the next day.
6th March 2026
Up by 0600. No power yet. Did what needed to done. Let water trickle and refill bucket. A full bucket was more essential than a bath and an empty bucket for the rest of the day.
The room had a great view. The mist was still in
Breakfast was at 0830. Went to the dining area. It was a large area, with around 10 tables. Empty when I walked in. The kitchen was stacked with dirty vessels. No water.
But, eggs and maggi was possible. Ordered, and sat back.
Three guys walked in. Must have come in after I went to sleep. They ordered eggs. They started discussing the bill. Realized that they had bargained a lower room rate, even though it was three to a room. Given that the staff had no clue as to the rate given to me, decided to quote the lower rate.
Had breakfast. Informed staff that I would be departing early the next morning. Gave them the order for dinner. Departed for Kibithoo.
The Lohit valley has history. It is called the Battle of Walong. It starts above Kibithoo, and moves South along the Lohit Valley. In 1962 it faced one wing of the Chinese invasion. There are so many units that made a name here for their valour.
The western part of Arunachal Pradesh with Tawang and Bumla initially came into the news for the same reason. Today, the western part of Arunachal Pradesh is much better known because of the comfortable accommodation, access, and, road infrastructure.
Roads in the Lohit Valley are still being constructed. The only hotel along the valley is the place I was at. There are no eateries anywhere along the road. The fact that the government ignored infrastructure requirements in this area for so long is sickening.
Drove north on the road along the Lohit River. Was forced to stop and wait for road gangs at numerous places. Was told that there were orders to get the road done, fast.
That is how far above the river I was. This is about 10 minutes into my drive towards Kibithoo.
Reached a high point. This was a new construct. Still to be inaugurated. Much necessary, if the place was to become popular and invite tourism.
Just opposite this construct was this board.
Unfortunate, the clouds were in. The visibility up the valley was closed to me. But, the thought was that I was headed in that direction.
As drove further towards Kibithoo, the already low traffic dropped to nothing. Found out the hard way.
The road was closed, about 15 kilometers before Kibithoo. No one was allowed thru. Not even defnse vehicles. The orders were to finish the road. So said the pretty lady in a florescent jacket and cap, painted loads of pink lipstick. All with a smile, and polite.
The road would open from sunset to sunrise for the next week. The road works had been allowing vehicles thru earlier. But, each time a vehicle was let thru it stopped work. Half the day was lost in the process.
That shot my plan to get to Kibithoo. It was not that I could not leave the resort, get there before 0600 and drive thru. It was that if the fuel station did not have fuel, or, power, I would not have enough in my tank to get back to the next possible fuel station. The day's up and down had taken it's share. Driving in the mountains at low speed consumed a lot more fuel than the plains. Plus, getting stuck because of fuel did not look a good option.
It was around 1100. Would take me the same couple of hours to drive back, go to the Walong War memorial, hunt down a eating place.
On the way back saw a turn off for a place called Helmet Top, a military station which had been in the thick of the fighting in 1962. It looked a newly laid road.
The temptation was too much. Only 30 kilometers. Took quite a few hair pin turns to get to the top. The drive was thru the fir forest. Dry as can be.
Reading the tales of valour was worth the drive up the mountain.
On the way down, saw signs of fire.
Drove past the resort turn off to Walong. Past the War Memorial. Was no hungry.
Found this tin shed place that said Rice and Dal. No name. Just some posters of Rice and some meat. Asked while at my driver's seat. Was told to get myself into the shed and at a table if I wanted to eat. Did just that. The guy I had spoken to was just sitting at a table. Was just a satisfied customer. The owner, cook, staff, was a lady.
Turned out they had Rice, Dal, and, aloo sabji. Ate well. Good clean food.
Stopped at the Walong War Memorial on the way towards the resort.
Each represented a Unit that had served in the valley during the war.
There were many more.
There were names inscribed on the walls. There were tales of bravery on the walls. Must visit.
Got back to the resort around 1500. Still no power. The bucket of water was intact.
Slept a bit.
Woke up to see this across the river, in a gap between two mountains. This was around 1630.
The valley had had a massive forest fire a month back. It had required the Army to use Helicopters to dowse the fires.
This looked like a fire starting. And so it was.
This was the way it looked around 1800. It was still on the eastern side of the mountain.
By 1930 this was the fire. It had reached the top of the mountain. Looked like it was heading south and west towards the river.
Had my dinner. Still in candle light. Went to sleep, hoping the river would stop the fire.
7th March 2026
Up early. 0500. No power yet !!! Got myself sorted. Stepped out expecting to see the mountainside aflame.
All I got was haze in the darkness. Either the fire had burnt itself out. Or, had reached the river and fizzled. Or, was still burning fierce and I just could not see it thru the haze of the smoke and cloud, and, the light.
Opened the gate and drove out by 0545. My target was a place called Hawai, for the Indian Oil Station, to fill my tank with petrol.
This was a 60 kilometer drive, about two hours.
Nearing the place, all my maps got lost. Two online maps, and one offline.
Fortunately saw a neatly dressed man walking in the same direction as I was headed. Stopped and asked him for Hawai, especially the Fuel Station. he told me the turn off was a narrow bridge a couple of kilometers ahead. Then asked politely if he could ride along as he had work in Hawai. Promised to lead me in sighting distance of the Fuel Station before he got off.
Turns out he was a village headman and was going to the district public works office as their water pipe had burst. He had walked down from his village up in the mountains, and was hoping to be the first in the queue at the office. My coming was a good sign.
He took me up a few shortcuts that lead by farms, cattle sheds, and, tight turns. But, as he said, given I was driving a Thar I had no problem.
A sight for hungry eyes.
Tanked up. Was informed that the bridge I crossed and the road I came up on would be under water in a few years. A Hydro Electric project had been approved. The place would have a large dam. And, the surroundings would go under water. Was also told not to worry, as the alternate road was already being constructed. Which is why the existing section was not seeing any road work, as the road further up was.
My drive down from Hawai, back to the highway was a lot more peaceful. Had not noticed the climb on the way up, but I was a far stretch above the river. That was the bridge in the distance.
Was still early for traffic. Had time to stop on the narrow road take this of the valley south. The green is clear and dense.
This run is green, thru dense forest.
Saw a bunch of bird watchers walking towards me as I started the run. They had a couple of Innovas trailing.
Had a booking at the same resort in Tezu for the next night. Had passed that half an hour back.
Decided to drive on. See how far I could get. Remembered the place at Dibrugarh. Looked it up and called in a room for the night. This was just a few hours away. Good for a late lunch.
Just as I was cruising on the 6 lane highway, GMaps screwed me. Took me past my turn into Tinsukia. Took some getting out.
Reached Mellow Breeze outside Dibrugarh on the Highway by 1400. Had a lot of back roads to do, yet made time. Was irritated as I got in.
The room was clean. Had them change the sheets, just as a precaution.
Food was nothing too good. Stayed with the basics. Cannot go wrong with dal, rice, subji.
Slept early. They refused to let me settle the bill that sight. Insisted on having staff awake anytime in the morning I was to leave. Got a shock when I told them 0530. They had never had a guest leave before breakfast at 0800.
8th March 2026
Was up and good to go at 0530. The staff to check me out was waiting outside my door. Helped me with luggage. Tried to convince me that driving without breakfast si not the best way to do it. Left anyway.
Stopped at Bokaghat for breakfast. There are these Poori Subji places, that serve nothing else. You sit. A dry Kou Pat is placed in front of you. Pooris arrive next. Then comes the hot aloo piaz subji. Then the green chilli pickle.
As your leaf empties, it gets filled. Till you beg them to stop.
Then comes the chai, either lal ( red, without milk ), or with milk.
Then the choice of sweets - rasagulla, peda.
Had my fill.
My stop at Kaziranga was 45 minutes away.
Stayed on in Kaziranga for a few days before I flew back to Chennai.
Brilliant drive. Ony regret was not reaching Kibithoo.
But, it is not going anywhere. And, roads are getting built.
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