Sitapur II

Diary for 1st October posted on 2nd October, due to time and signals.

Woke up at 0330. The noise in the corridor was louder than my alarm. Sounded like a railway station. "Chai Chai, Coffee coffee". Tried desperately to stay in bed for a while longer. Impossible. Anyways, was supposed to get up at 0400 and be ready at 0500, to catch a horse !!

Got to the lobby to see this load of people from Karnataka, male and female of all ages, chattering away. They were already complaining about a 12 hour bus journey to Badrinath. Well, to cut that story short, they left. In single file. Males first then the females.

We now get to the main course.

First the story of the horse that overslept.

Was met outside the hotel at 0500 by a very hyper active guy. He was the connect to the horse. He tried to solicit more horsey business but failed. So, we started walking to Sonprayag, one kilometre away, which is the last stop for any vehicle heading to Gauri Kund. 

In 50 meters he had flagged down a local bolero and fitted us into the already jammed vehicle. He knew everybody. We got to Sonprayag in one piece. 

There he registered his Horsey license with my Pass for Kedarnath ( which I had done the previous afternoon ). I paid up INR2500/=, and we moved on. To catch a government registered taxi to the start - Gauri Kund. The taxis run between Sonprayag and Gauri Kund. Charge INR30/= up and INR20/= down. Fit two in front, 4 in the middle and six at the back. They move when they have a full load.

Got into Gauri Kund, me ready for horse ride up the mountains. Then came the statement. Horse missing. Please wait. So I waited 15 minutes. The guy came back and took me up to Gauri Kund, onto a narrow concrete path, which is the only way up.

And, was sat down again. Then he appeared after 30 minutes. Horse missing. So again, I waited. He finally appeared at 0720, saying he had woken up the horses. Well, I kept shut. As it is this was unplanned, things had all fallen into place. Who was I to complain about a tiny hiccup. But, the impact would be felt later !!!

Headed out to greet my horse at 0720. There were hundreds of them. Horse shit all over the roads. But, being diligently swept away by people employed just for that. Saw horseman, but no horse. Waited again. This time for 10 minutes. The horse came, and tried to bolt. NOT because of me. It did not know then that I was the rider. 

Got on the horse. Took some doing. First, put one foot in stirrup iron. Then haul body and fling other leg over rump of horse. With a lot of help from the actual horseman, who is actually a young Nepali boy, all of 19 years. Well, got it done. Hip complained. I ignored. Hip gave up and settled down. Also figured out the way down. You swing leg forward over horse's head, and slide down. Take you feet out of the stirrup first.

The climb started. As did the fear. The height, lack of control on the animal I was sitting on, the drop by the side of the path. It was for 14 kilometres on horse. We then walk 2 kilometres, safely .

There was this group of school kids on horses, who started at the same time. They wanted fast. Every time those horses went fast, mine wanted to. Felt like kicking all school kids.

Added to this, every time my horse smelt it's stable partners who were bout 10 minutes behind, he wanted to turn around. Wild, and scary.

The sky was blue. the weather glorious. The crowd large. But, according to the locals, not 20 percent of what is in season - May and June. 

Most pictures are from on a moving horse.

And then, the clouds started coming in. The impact of the two hours delay !!!

The view was breathtaking. The ride was scary. You look down and see the drop. And, I have never ridden a horse. 

By the time we were had about 6 kilometres to go, the weather really changed. The clouds that were moving in, now looked ominous. A faint drizzle started. Had I left at 0600, I would have been up in clear weather. If that would have made a difference to the contact between the Gods and myself, I have no clue. But, as it was, it clouded up and started drizzling.

Decided to walk a bit. Realised that I was absolutely unfit. I walked 4 kilometres. Had my tongue at my toes, and my thighs crying out. 

The horses stop 1.5 kilometres before Kedarnath. You have to walk, unless you take a palanquin. It is uphill on stone. The entire route is paved with stone. And, lit. And, BSNL works extremely well, all the way up.

So I walked. Getting wet in the drizzle. Where was my raincoat ? Lost in the climb. Must have fallen of.

Walked to the temple across a very fast flowing stream. 

Did not go in. There was a queue. Me and God have a deal. No queue, I enter. Else, I communicate from outside. 

Bought a raincoat almost immediately.

No pictures on the way down. Hanging on to the horse. Changed horses midway, as the one I was on really started acting up. Later found that one shoe was half off. Poor guy. 

The ride down was heavy on the knees and thighs. Steep down hill in the rain. Had to lean back to help the horse, while trying to stay on the horse. Reached safely. Knees screwing me, but walked that off. Back ok, inner thighs aching. Mind okay !!

The place was empty when we got town.

The organisation they have is very good. If you want to go, make sure you plan for it. I did not. Kedarnath was never on my trip list. It happened. I was expecting to see snow clad mountains at Sitapur. And, walk a bit. Did not happen. A free day opened up. And, a crazy horse.

Got back to the hotel. Had a plate of hot finger chips, fresh variety, not frozen. Then HOT bath.Then double Kudi. Then dinner and crashed by 8pm.

This post will hit you tomorrow. IF the next stop has signals. This one does, but I’d have to carry laptop to lobby. Not me.

Leave tomorrow at 0600.