Kaziranga - Kohora Bagori and Agarotoli

December 02, 2021

29th, 30th November and 1st December

Those of you who have not been to Kaziranga have no clue as to what you are missing.

Over the last three days, I have done six rides into the forest.

Stayed in a cottage at Wildgrass, a very laid back hotel which has been there for ages.

There was a guest already resident in the bathroom, whom I decided not to disturb.

It was peaceful coexistence. Have had many types of such little guys in the vaiety of places I have stayed - frogs, spiders, gekkos, and other such, whom I was careful not to step on. Part of going into the wilder areas, and staying in the not so star places.

There are three main ranges - the central range at Kohora. The Eastern Range at Agarotoli, and the Western range, at Bagori. Each range has it's unique landscape - a mix of tall Elephant Grass, sprawling grasslands around water bodies, and, the densely wooded areas. Animal types frequent the range that best suits their food base, and, security.

Kohora is 10 minutes from the hotel. Bagori is about 45 minutes, and Agarotoli 30 minutes.

To give you some idea of my day, the morning ride starts at 0730 and ends around 1100. The afternoon ride starts at 1330 and ends at 1700.

You leave early morning around 0630, get back for lunch around 1130, and head out again at around 1300. The ride back to the hotel is in the dark. It is cold both mornings and evenings in the open jeep. The process at the range to register yourself and get a pass takes anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes.

Varun and Divya had organised a driver for me for all 3 day. He was a great guy, very experienced, patient and with a very good for birds and animals. His knowledge was as good as his sightings were. A good driver is essential, if you are to enjoy the wild.

Agarotoli has the best list of birds and abundant Water Buffalo. Kohora and Bagori give you a mix of Elephant and Rhino. All ranges boast of the big cat.

Day one was to Agarotoli, which is the Eastern Range, for the morning and the afternoon. The morning is brilliant for birds, feasting at the water bodies. The birds of prey high on the trees keep close watch to dive down and swoop up their prey. The Water Buffalo wallow in the water and bask in the swampy grassland.

Day two morning was to Kohora, which is the central range and gets the maximum number of visitors. You enter to a wooded area that leads to tall elephant grass. Sightings in this area is difficult, except when they burn the grass just before the rains. The road then leads to a sighting tower near a huge water body, called Daphlung. You leave this to go into more tall grass and then into a densely wooded area, before you emerge to more flat grassland.

Day two afternoon was to Bagori, which is the Western range. There are loads of tourists here also as the Rhino sightings are phenomenal. A majority of the range is flat grassland, which the Rhino adores.

Day three morning was at Agaraotoli. Day three afternoon was at Kohora.

I had gone back to Agarotoli again as that is where I had my two earlier Tiger sightings.

During these six ride, I had the immense pleasure of seeing Eleven birds of prey. This count was done by the guide and Divya. Not me. And, many many more types of Storks, pelicans, and smaller Birds. Some are posted here for your identification pleasure.

And, the Water Buffalo, which swarm the water bodies of Agarotoli.

The Rhinos which are seen in abundance at Bagori, and are also very much in Kohora.

And, the Elephant, which are at all ranges, but I saw closely at Kohora and Bagori.

How could I forget the Big Cat, the Tiger, which I saw at Kohora, 10 minutes before the close of the ride. Not very close, but, nevertheless.

Then there were the sundries that were there.

And, the grand finale for each day was the afternoon ride out of the range. Each offers it's own beauty of the sunset. The sun set is around 1615 hours. It is dark by 1700. The sky is lit in every type of red and orange in between.

The reason I went to Bagori on the afternoon of Day Two was that a tribal lunch had been arranged by Varun at the house of some people he knew, past the range. Made more sense to get to the Bagori range as it was closer. Less ride time lost.

That is the lunch. Every dish was either boiled or roasted. No oil used. Bhoot Jholokia definitely in there, as was Elephant apple.

Last night was a party for Varun, who is turning 40 soon.

This morning we played some tennis ball cricket. Something I have niot done in decades. Batted - hit some fours and a six, checked the ball at the stumps - got a wicket, fielded. It was fun. Eight of us in two teams of four each. Everyone fielded, except for the people batting.