Chambal Valley

The departure to the Chambal valley was on time. The breakfast pack was ready and waiting. Nothing holding me on the longish run of around 650 kilometers.

The place I was heading to was in a small town called Baag, in Uttar Pradesh. This was part of the Chambal Valley. I had always associated Chambal with Madhya Pradesh, but, it actually has parts in MP, UP and a part lies in Rajasthan.

Chambal had always been on my desitination list. To see the ravines, where the Mangal Singh, Maan Singh and other infamous dacoits ruled, was a must. My earlier routes had never allowed me into central India. This trip set the path bang into the region. 

My early hunt for a place to stay took me towards a place called Dholpur, in MP. But, accommodation plays a large part in deciding on the actual location. The places in Dholpur faded after I saw the details on Mela Kothi - Chambal  Safai Lodge, in Baag UP. Was not difficult deciding after I spoke to the hostess, who answered the contact line. The attitude and openness made the decision easy. 

And let me tell you, what I met matched what I had spoken to. Had very entertaining conversations with the couple who run the place, over my stay of three nights.

The first few hours of my run, till I reached Panna were on a narrow state highway. Fortunately, given the early hour there was no traffic. Once I crossed Panna, the road improved dramatically. I could see myself into Mela Kothi for lunch.

There were two maps running. One was from google, and the other native to the Thar. The Thar map would go on the blink every once in a while when I was on roads with no traffic. In addition, it did not have any of the new bypasses. So, I was often floating in thin air on the Thar map. So, even though I trusted google maps to take me thru the most bizarre of routes. it was on.

By the time I crossed Gwalior, at around 1230, the distance to cover was around 100 kilometers. Easy run to lunch. But, google maps did me in. The Thar map was screaming at me to turn and take another road. But, I ignored it, as I was wondering when it would leave me on the blink again. The google map confidently led me on. Then turned me on to a state highway, which was in great shape, initially. Then the road started disappearing in parts. The lack of traffic should have warned me. But, so often I run hours with no traffic that I was not bothered. Suddenly, the road took me into a village and vanished. The tar top had given up way back. It was a mud road. And now, there were houses where map wanted me to go. Asked the three old women sitting at the corner of their compound. They pointed me in a circle. Fortunately, all three hands showed me the same direction. With no choice, I followed their pointing hands. Straight into a buffalo and a tractor. Intent peering showed me that I could drive on, if I got thru the buffalo. The lady who was watching me peer around, seemed to know her way around buffaloes as she was kind enough to request the buffalo out of the way, with a pat on it's rump. The calf sitting behind courteously heaved itself out of the way. I was thrilled. Drove on, feeling great after the experience.

Just as I was about 25 kilometers from my destination, got a call from Mela Kothi. The hostess was a bit concerned about my whereabouts, as she had just discovered something I needed to know. 

The bridge over the Chambal on the route that maps was leading me to was non existent. At that moment, I was at a sign that had me a kilometer from Alter Fort. Remember that Fort, it will come again in this narrative.

This picture was taken a couple of days later when I was on foot. Before turning the Thar around, I spoke to a local to confirm the route to the nearest crossing.

Had to back track 40 kilometers to the highway. Then loop around to the next bridge. By now, had given up on google, which had exploded in anguish when I turned around and headed away from the great dive it was setting me up for. Was back to following the Thar Map, which seemed to know the road. Could almost hear it laughing at me. It took me confidently into the town of Baag. And, for revenge, turned me into a tiny mud road a kilometer before the actual turn off to Mela Kothi. 

It was a narrow mud lane that went no where I wanted. Managed to squeeze a 180 on the road, back to the main road. Called the lady again, who was kind enough to be extremely patient with me. Reached Mela Kothi on solid concrete road in good shape about a few kilometers further down the highway.

The people at Mela Kothi welcomed me with relief. And, had hot lunch waiting. There was also a very earnest Naturalist who was to be my guide and bird mentor for the stay, who wanted to sit me down and work out the plan for my stay. Politely requested him to wait till I got my head back on straight. Hydration, then food, then plans.

Lunch was excellent. And, was so at every meal - six in all, three vegetarian, three carnivorous. Good tasty fare, followed by a different dessert each time.

Did lunch. Then sat down with the naturalist, who wanted to dive into utilizing my time fruitfully in exploring nature. 

The plan made out was as follows. That afternoon would be dedicated to my sitting out in the lawn and doing anything that did not expend energy.

The next morning would do a safari on the Chambal river starting 0730, post breakfast. The river ecology boasted of crocodiles, ghariyals and loads of birds.

Then go to Bateshwar Temple complex in the afternoon, where there were numerous temples of Lord Shiva.

The day after would cross the river and walk to Fort Alter. Then do a nature trail in the afternoon, around the property. Little did I know what I was setting myself up for, in terms of distance to be covered.

Sat out in the sprawling lawn under a large umbrella. Finished the narrative for the earlier part of the drive, and published it for all to read. Felt myself being watched.

As it started getting chill, got up. Heard some noises from the tree behind.

Loaded with what I thought were bats. You will see them clearer, a bit later, the way I saw them.

Relaxed till 1830, had a hot shower. There was a fire lit outside. Carried my whiskey. Had a comfortable evening talking about everything under the sun with the hostess and another guest. Around 2030 had my dinner of Mutton curry and rice. Superb preparation. Slept very well.

Got up on the 3rd morning bright and early. Was out and ready post breakfast to find the guide waiting. Got into the Thar, headed east and then south to the River Chambal. Entered the ravines of the valley as we crossed the gate into the Ghariyal sanctuary. The tar top changed to hard mud. It is so simple to understand the ease with which the dacoits controlled the area, and escaped when chased. An army could hide in your close proximity and you would not see them. Drove down the mud track with steep gradients till the river. Then along the banks for about 500 meters.

Tried loading a video. Did not work.

Parked the vehicle by the side of the river and eased myself into the fiberglass boat. The next three hours were just brilliant. Saw Dolphins ( which I could not get a snap of ), crocodiles, Ghariyals, Turtles, and birds of many many varieties. Will let the pictures talk.

 

And that, is just part of what I saw. What I saw is just part of what is there.

Got back to the resort by 1230. Relaxed a while, had a hot shower and some great food. Couple of vegetables, dal and rice. Relaxed till 1600 then headed out to Bateshwar to see the temples. The temples were built between the 13th and 16th century by many different people. In those times, Bateswar used to be a very important pilgrimage spot. And, a  very important trading point for horses and camels.

Before we left, wanted to see what the "bats" really were.

It was what is commonly known as the Flying Fox !!!

Got to the temple in good time. Marked the road as that was what I had to be on when I headed out on the 5th.

 

Got back to to the resort by 1800. Had a shower. The plan was to have a beer that evening, as my whiskey stock was low. Found that the resort only had Tuborg Strong. Headed out to the local Desi Sharab ka dukan. Picked up a half of Blender's pride. Then settled down in front of the fire.

Dinner was Mutton keema and chapattis. Again, brilliant. Really great cooking.

The next day again stated at 0730. After a sensible breakfast, got to the river. The Fort Alter is on the Madhya Pradesh side of the bank. We were to take the boat to cross, then  walk for about 3 kilometers to reach the fort. The walk took us thru parts of the ravine. And, once again, the birds were there, waiting.

Returned to the room hot, dusty and dehydrated. Polished two glasses of fresh lime with salt, before I started feeling human. Had walked 7 kilometers in the morning jaunt. Completely worth the exercise. Relaxed till lunch, which was my standard request of vegetables, dal and rice. Nothing as tasty as well cooked vegetables without too much spice along with a light dal.

The plan for the afternoon was to head out for a walk around the property, take a look at the birds, the trees. Left the room at 1600.

That evening sat around the fire with the couple who run the place. Dinner was much later than it should have been.

Has been an absolutely delightful change from the normal wildlife trips I make. The terrain was different, the sightings were skewed towards the sky. 

And, what really added complete value to the stay being so much fun was the people at the place - the host and hostess, the guide who was with me for two days, the chef who laid a splendid fare each meal, the boys who served. 

The next stop is Jodhpur, a run of 670 kilometers.