Into Religion and Culture February 2025
17th February 2025
Departed Simlipal in Odisha at 0545 as planned. The gate keeper was waiting for me.
The roads are just fantastic. NH18 then NH19.
First hour had different density of fog. At times down to 10 meters. But the lack of traffic early made it easy.
The speed limits were at 80 kmph. So stayed within that. Lack of traffic meant I was on cruise most of the while. Made great time.
Crossed into Jharkhand. The roads stayed as good. Cost of fuel dropped by 10 percent for petrol !!
The crossed into Bihar, reaching my destination Jataka Inn, Gaya. Got in by 1300. Had a relaxed lunch. Slept a while.
Headed out to the Mahabodi Temple in the evening. Got an electric auto rickshaw for the round trip. Recommended by the hotel security.
Got snapped up by a guide as soon as I reached. Thought why not. It helped in jumping queue to get a cloak room locker for my smartphones. They have been banned in most of the larger temples in the south. Effect of idiots planting explosive devices. Jumped the next queue for a camera ticket.
Breezed thru security. Place is crowded. A mix of our people and those from SE Asia. A small percentage of westerners.
The guide walked me thru Siddartha's journey to becoming enlightened as Gautama Buddha.
Just added one correction to his narrative. This was on Ashoka and the Kalinga war. He gave me the normal Ashoka became Buddhist after the war. Not actually true.
I was surprised to learn that the Temple which was destroyed along with the Nalanda library, was reconstructed by a British officer in the 1700s. Need to read this up.
Was walked thru Buddha's seven week stay at Bodh Gaya.
People are staying in the temple, meditating. Many others, come, pray and leave.
This depicts Buddha being protected by a Nag from the rain when he was meditating..
Great feeling. Glad I did this.
Got back to the hotel. Took a walk to buy water bottles.
Departure tomorrow is late by normal standards. Will have an early breakfast at 0700. Then checkout.
Headed to Varanasi.
18th February 2025
Up later than ysual. At 0600. Headed down for breakfast at 0655, hoping to be the first. Walked into this huge Sri Lankan group.
There was a queue at the breakfast buffet which was not moving. On being prodded was told that they were waiting for the plate of their Guru to be filled. Since he was not my Guru, I started, after duly apologizing to the ladies there.
Idli, Poha, Egg. Done.
Departed at 0730.
Followed google maps. Found in a bit that the damn thing had tricked me. Instead of heading back a few kilometers and grabbing NH19, it took me on what it thought was the shortest route. Which in reality was 30 kilometers longer, on back roads.
Reached NH19 with 150 kilometers to go. Made great time, as it was three lane.
About 50 kilometers before Varanasi got stuck in a massive jam. As the jam started unfolding, realised that I was being harrassed by vehicles from all states. So put on my agro self.
The jam was (1) traffic coming on the wrong side of a service road (2) lorries parked on the side of the NH just where there was construction.
Broke free and fueled up. Did not want to get into a fueling situating when I headed out of Varanasi day after.
Turned off NH and crossed the Mugal Sarai railway tracks into a long long traffic situation. Learnt that autos in Varanasi rule. As do bikes. They believe in their brakes to an extent that it is unbelievable.
Took me an hour and a half for the last 20 kilometers.
Checked in. Had the local vegetarian thali. Headed ou at 1530. Had to get to Ravidas Ghat to catch a cruise ship.
The Alakananda Cruise ships operate morning and evening. Take you up and down the Ganges. The evening cruise is to see the Ganga Aarti.
Was expecting the auto ride to take an hour. Got there a bit faster.
Auto rides are like sitting in an uncontrolled vehicle flying thru crowds, narrowly missing all that comes in front or by the side.
Sat on the banks of the Ganges till the cruise started.
That bridge has two layers - vehicles on top, trains below.
As you would have noted, maybe, no Aarti. Believe they were cancelled due to the massive inflow of bhakts. In order to avoid any stupidity, they decided to cancel. Makes sense.
The crowds are there. You may not see them in these pictures. But will put some up tomorrow morning.
Am booked for the cruise tomorrow morning and evening. Wanted the Aarti. And, my daughter in joining me. Family felt strongly that me going to religious places need physical support.
Waiting for her to get in from the airport.
She came in by 2200. Had dinner. Slept.
19th February 2025
Comfortable wake up. But no breakfast as that starts only at 0730.
Headed out to Ravidas Ghat for the cruise.
Reached well in time. The ghat was almost empty. Nice breeze. Sun was in our faces but not feeling in too much.
The cruise started at 0900.
The perspective of the ghats is completely different day to night.
In terms of actually seeing the number of people, or, the ghats themselves. Was glad to have done this. Only disappointment was missing the Ganga Aarti.
The cruise got over at 1030. Was as much fun as the previous evening. Met a couple from Dindigul. The ladies got talking and did not stop. Numbers were exchanged, and I got an invite anytime I headed Kodi way.
We decided not to do the evening cruise we had booked for. That released a lot of time.
Took a walk to Aasi Ghat, not far away. Dipped our feet in the Ganges. Then headed out towards the road.
Found a place serving Banarasi Kachodi and vegetable. Had a plate each. Tasty.
Out again at 1530. This time towards Namo Ghat, which is on the other end of the 81 Ghats.
I had seen some stalls there and thought it would be an interesting walk.
Our auto driver turned out to be a local touristy guy. He talked my daughter, who was anyways inclined, into visiting a Benaras Silk Sari weaver outlet. Ended up buying some. All were happy.
Got to Namo Ghat. Found that there was a Tamil Sangam event on. Never knew that it was an annual event, where there were book stalls, music sessions, and plays.
Spent a while there before we headed back to the hotel
The auto ride was the icing on all the rides in Varanasi. The driver wanted us to reach our hotel fast. And, he made some amazing moves. Fortunately the top speed rarely crossed around 20 to 30 kmph.
Early dinner. Early departure. Heading to Prayagraj tomorrow.
20th February 2025
Up at 0245. Departed at 0345. To drive 140 kilometers to Prayagraj.
The stories that I had heard had been anything but optimistic about the traffic conditions. Every one seemed to tell people to stay away, everything about the Kumbh Mela is a mess.
There is traffic, but, it is directed to parking well outside the city. We got 16 kilometers from Prayagraj by 0830. Then were directed to a parking called Patel Bagh. We told the police officer that we had a hotel booking that was away from the Sangam which had parking. But, he was firm and polite, telling me that even if he let me thru, I'd get stopped within a couple of kilometers. So, parked where we were directed. Took over night clothes in a small bag. Walked to the Highway to hunt for transport to the hotel, which was 16 kilometers away.
Yes, it is tough to get into the city, but not impossible if you apply your mind. We took three motor cycle rides. That would be me plus daughter plus bike rider. The first was about 5 kilometers for INR300/=, from where we were parked to the Ganga Bridge. The second when we were walking on the bridge to get transport on the other side. A biker stopped next to me and asked me if I wanted a lift. I accepted. He dropped us 4 kilometers closer to our hotel. I offered him INR400/=, he took only half. said he was just doing a good deed. He was an office goer, doing his thing for the day. The third was from where we were dropped to the hotel, for INR300/-.
We were checked in by 1145. Our tour guide came by 1200.
Told him priority was Sangam dip. His question was more on transport. Finally decided that he'd get me a Scooty on hire, which I would ride. Must tell you that it was an experience. Last time I had been on a bike was a few decades back. It all came back. Even in this mad mad UP traffic. Where we were wrong side multiple times. Cut across the nose of traffic multiple times. Made turns across the nose of traffic. Madness. Never again.
Left at 1230 for the Sangam. Parked the bikes. The last stretch of about 2 kilometers was vehicle free. It was teeming with humanity. No pushing, no shoving, no shouting. Just people either walking towards the Sangam. Or people returning from the Sangam. Just doing their thing. It was a sublime situation. So glad I was there.
Our guide stopped about a 100 meters from the water under a numbered post. Every twenty odd square meters is numbered. Helps identify where what is so easily. Guys have thought about the smaller things.
Made our way to the water. Stepped in, and waded a few meters. The water was knee deep. It was chill. It was clean. It was murky, caused by the mud stirred by humanity.
There was no crowd in the water. There was ample space for each individual to tak his or her dip in peace. We did our thing and headed back to the place we had left our guide, plus belongings. Neither of us wanted to change, opting rather to dry out.
It felt great that I had not allowed my stupidity to overrule my route thru Prayagraj when I realized the Kumbh crowd would be there.
Fantastic being there.
Great job by the administration, taking this massive surge on their resources.
The water was clean. No dirt of any kind.
The walk from the place we parked our bikes to the Sangam, was clean. No litter, not garbage. It was clean. Poeple were not tossing stuff around.
Very impressed.
Glad that I came.
Need a drink this evening. For the bike riding I did.
Tomorrow morning we leave for Ayodhya.
We were ready for the drink by 1800. Waited for half an hour. Then decided to hunt down a booze shop. Was one walking distance. Picked up some of the good stuff. Ordered some short eats to the room. Asleep by 2000.
21st February 2025
We were up and checked out by 0515. The bike rider came at 0540.
My daughter was dreading the possibility of a scooty carrying the two of us along with the rider. Fortunately it was a Bullet.
Took us 45 minutes to reach Patel Parking in Andawa, where my vehicle was parked. There was traffic that early. Most of it was wrong side driving. Needed some searching to find the exact turnoff where the vehicle was.
The area around the Sangam completely lit up. Sectioned and numbered.
Paid the rider INR3000/= for his troubles. He had to get back across the Ganges, and thru the traffic.
Took some time repacking, cleaning the windscreen.
Departed the parking area away from the highway we came in from.
Clean drive up towards Lucknow. Stopped in a bit for a matka of tea, and saw this.
Those are the golgappas, or puchkas, being manufactured. Domestic industry.
Stopped for breakfast. Had Poori sabji plus a plate of Batura channa. These guys use a lot of oil early in the morning. Miss the idli or the upma. Or even the Thosai.
Maps was showing us a route that had 130 kilometers to go. The road stones read 95 kilometers.
Stopped before a turnoff and asked a local. Learned that there was a new road that shaved 40 kilometers off the original route. Took it without a blink.
Well, maps had the last laugh. Within 10 kilometers saw a massive jam up ahead. Did a quick turn around and went back to the original route.
The new route was a single lane road. The original was a two lane highway.
Excellent road for the next 100 kilometers. About 40 kilometers from our destination got caught in a traffic jam. A poloce person was walking around making sure no one was hustling. On being asked cause, he said they were just regulating inflow into Ayodhya.
Reached our destination, Royal Heritage, without too much of a fuss. The hotel was across the Sarayu.
This was a new bridge. As was the highway. The old bridge was past the railway bridge visible in the picture. As was the Sarayu Ghat.
Had lunch, and decided to head out to the Sarayu by 1600.
Did just that. Took some luck getting an auto that far out of town. But get, we did.
Reached the police barricade about 2 kilometers from the Sarayu. Walked with the crowd.
The last time I had walked towards the Sarayu Ghat was in 2022. Had stayed about a 100 meters from the Ram Janmabhoomi entrance. The mandir was under construction. Could not go in as the gates were closed. And it started raining later. Had walked to the Ghat later in the evening, arriving just in time to see the Aarti. The road was about 500 meters from the river. The distance between was built up as a ghat. The Aarti was done on the river mud bank. The new ghat had been constructed for the devotees to relax on both sides of a canal that was running between the Sarayu and the road.
Now, the ghat on the banks of the river was built up.
Reached by 1645. We decided to relax and wait for the Aarti to start.
We were there at 1645. Almost the first to find a seat.
The Arti started at 1815. By that time the stands were full. There were also benches set on the river banks. Plus the standing devotees all around. Close to a 1000 people there by the time the Aarti got over at 1900.
Caught an auto back to the hotel.
The drive was on the bridge immediately visible in this set of pictures. And the last picture has been taken from that bridge.
The road was a tiny village road that wound it's way to our hotel. Took 30 minutes to cover 8 kilometers.
22 February 2025
Today is the day we visit Ram Janmabhoomi. The place I had not gone to in 2022 because the gates were closed for lunch. And, it started raining. Everything has a reason.
Had breakfast. That was an experience. The buffet opened about 5 minutes after we reached. One other table had people waiting. By the time we were done there was a queue at the buffet, the buffet itself had a double lane, and, ever table was full.
Met up with our guide at 0830. He parked his bike and joined us in my vehicle. Got to the parking without any problem. Finding parking took some time.
No vehicles were allowed past a certain stage. Autos ferried those who could pay. Rest walked. This was for the VIP entrance. That's what we were today - VIPs.
Grabbed an auto and got to the road leading to the entrance.
We were checked 5 times before we reached the temple entrance, about a kilometer away. People without passes were being directed towards the general entrance.
Were asked to deposit all our belongings in a locker room before entering the temple complex. Did just that.
The Temple itself is still being constructed. The main shrine where the Vigraham is, is done. But all else is getting built.
The construction, the carvings, are exquisite.
It is a must visit place. If you can wait, come after two years. The place should be done. It will be beautiful. I will, if all systems are still okay.
The Ramar temple built in our lifetime. In his birthplace.
There is a crowd. More so now because of the Kumbh. But, there is no puching and shoving. It is an orderly movement.
The VIP line has little crowding till the sannadhi itself. The sannadhi entrance tins into a single line, where each devotee gets about 10 seconds to have his personal time with the Vigraham.
The general line is like any temple that is popular with the people around. It has a crowd. Massive crowd. These people are chanting and walking.
It is so humbling seeing this level of devotion. Takes one's breath away.
Exited the temple to find our guide waiting. He had been stopped at the first checkpoint as he did not have a pass. Obvioulsy be has found a way thru later.
Went to the Dasharatha Mahal, and the Kanak Bhawan.
We were told the history of the places.
There are three sets of Vigharams of Rama, Sita and Lakshmna, in Dasharatha Mahal.
And, there is a smaller Vigraham showing the brothers and their wives.
In the first all are White - this was when they were in Janakpur where Rama had gone for his wedding. The story is beautiful. And, connects to Krishna marrying the 1608 ladies he rescues and marries.
In the second they are all Black - when they are in the forest.
In the third they are grey - when they have come back and Rama is to be crowned.
The Kanak Bhawan was gifted to Sita by Kausalya when she came to Ayodhya on marrriage.
There are three sets of Rama, Sita and Lakshamana, of different sizes.
The smallest was made by Kush, the son of Rama. The Next size was made by Vikramaditya. The next size was made in our current times.
History I did not know. Knowing it makes me feel a better person. Because, the conversation, or discussions, around listening to the history, is learning.
We then picked up some Tulasi Malais.
Then headed back to the vehicle as my daughter had a flight to catch. Her involvement with my trip was done.
Dropped her off at the airport.
Next stop was the Guptar Ghat. This was where Rama and Lakshmana enter the Sarayu after telling the people of Ayodhya that their time is over.
There is a temple here. It has the vigraham of Rama, Sita, and Lakshmana without their weapons. The normal, standard image we carry is them with their bows. This has them with flowers. This is the vigraham of renunciation.
There are so many stories. But, unless you come here, it will not be relevant.
This phase of Gaya - Varanasi - Prayagraj - Ayodhya was started with no expectations.
I have ended it with a tremendous belief in the people of Bharat, in their humanity. The belief is just awesome.
Exceptional journey
Tomorrow starts the next phase.
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