North into Rajasthan, with a few stops North, and a few South

Good evening

This time around decided that doing a day blog makes no sense. Am too pressed for taking time off my evening relaxed drink to be involved in creative entertaining writing.

So, have divided this into three sections.

The first will into Tiger country and then Chambal valley. Yes, you got that right. Where the dakus roamed when we were in school. The ravines I always wanted to go to. This run allowed me to route myself into the area.

The second will cover all of a week in Rajasthan. Am there with the kids. So will keep it touristy

The third is into Satpura.

Started the run on the 25th February after getting the 10000 service done for my Thar with the odometer reading 8500.

First halt was at Kamareddy in Telengana. Was pleasantly surprised by the hotel, picked as usual off the net. Well located on the NH.

Mistake made was that I got adventurous. Checked in at a good time, around 1430. Too late for lunch, too early for tea. Relaxed an hour, then headed into Kamareddy to pick up some of the good stuff. Got a quarter. Did not want any remnants when I crossed into Maharashtra and MP. Had a snack before knocking the Blenders Pride down, in a plastic glass. Hotel did not trust me with their Crystal !!!

Missed telling you. When I drove in, there were about 50 cars parked around. Thought marriage, but was told that it was a corporate lunch. Plus point for place. Made me confident on food.

Ordering for dinner was told that only green was paneer. Objected strongly. Was then offered Methi aloo or palak paneer. Told them to give me aloo palak.

It came as aloo in minced palak, with red chilli as part of the aloo and minced green chilli as part of the palak. Had ordered curd and a glass of milk. But, the chilli did it's job. Those who know me, know.

Rest assured, cured the next day by drying stomach till Pench was reached.

The road to Pench was a mix, changing with the state I was driving in. Andhra was fantastic, except for when I passed Nirmal at around 0630. There was this stretch with a swarn of insects that swatted my windscreen, almost blinding vision. Little I could do. Fortunately the sun came up soon after.

The roads in Maharashtra and MP were not half as good. Once you entered MP tiger country, it improved massively. As you approach Pench, there are road barriers on either side.

Was in to Pench in good time to check in, relax and then have lunch. Had a safari at 1430. Stayed at ba place called Village Machaan. The Place was packed with families. Fortunately, the room I was bumped into was in this separate building with four deluxe rooms, Think all hotels move me away from the crowd, just listening to me talk to them.

The other rooms were occupied by a Gujju family, part from as far as amrica. No contact at all. Was too busy going to safari and having shower to wash of dust.

With lunch done, had time to sort out other parts of life. All triggered by lady at counter, who told me that there was beer available. Tried to hustle staff into getting me some decent stuff from the main road, when I was told that the lady does all the arranging. They take a INR300/= pick up charge. Made them get me 10 bottles of water with the change. Same pick up run !!

Had three safaris arranged, all to the same gate. Went in at 1430 the first afternoon. Food was in tummy. Was not sure what the reaction to the last evening effect would be . But had to eat, had skipped eating till 1330. What I ate looked filled with masala. Tried as much as possible to stay safe.

The gate opened at 1500. Standard process is to make sure there is a mask on and the id is good. That was not an issue. But the safari was an absolute waste. Saw less than nothing. My camera did not come out once.

Fortunately, knew there was some good stuff waiting for me once I got back Had a hot shower and some William Lawson. For those who are wondering, this is a great Indian whiskey.

The next day was two safaris, into the same place. Was not expecting much. Will let the pictures talk.

Left for Bandhavgarh on the 28th at 0530 quite satisfied with myself. Why not ?? Had see two large cats, some lovely birds, enjoyed the conversation with the guide and driver.

The drive was great. Last time the road had been a mess. Was expecting something of the same. Turned out to be brilliant. Eased off the throttle to a relaxed pace as the destination was getting too close too fast.

Turned in to Tala deciding to fuel up for the next run. There is only one bunk and it does not accept the card. Paid Cash.

Got into Nature Heritage Resort by 1200. First thing I asked was about the safari the same afternoon. Guys were positive, but needed me to go and get a physical verification done. That is not necessary for a online booking as all documents are uploaded.

Place had cottages in a semi circle around the reception area. My cottage had the other room occupied. Young couple with a 4 year old girl who could talk without stopping. Wanted be to play skip whatever. Refused. Agreed to play peek with her. Her parents were mightily amused that the little girl listened to m when I asked her to lower her voice.

Had an early lunch, as I had to go for the verification. Food was such a contrast from Pench. It was mild, well laid out and tasty. Enjoyed the food.

The resort manager took me to the forest office to have my identity verified. Took about 15 minutes. Gave me some time to come back to the room and hydrate.

Did three safaris in total. There are three zones in Bandhavgarh. Tala is the biggest, then comes Magadhi, and then Khatawli. They allow 28, 20 and 16 jeeps in every session respectively.

My first safari was to Magadhi, the next to Khatowli and the third to Tala.

The safari in to Magadhi was going well till it turned into a circus. The gate for the zone is about 15 minutes from the forest office, where we pick up the guide. The jeep picks me up at the resort. There was then a high speed run to be as far up front of the queue as possible. The gate opened at 1500, and we raced in. Much use it was my having told the guys that I was relaxed and wanted no dust in my system. At the end of a 30 minutes run thru the forest, we stopped, tje jeep panting. All this was because that morning tigers had been sighted and this was the best probability of a repeat.

Well it did happen. We came across another jeep who had seen the tiger. It was still there, sitting at the side of the road. As more and more jeeps joined up at the location, the tiger got up and started moving out. All were nosily confirming that it was surely headed to the waterhole, which was by the side of the road. All that they had to do was go there and wait, as there was enough space to all the jeeps to line up and see the tiger. But, no. The jeeps tracked the step by step movement of the tiger, leap frogging each other. To the extent, some jeeps rammed one another in the jostle for sighting space.

Even though all the guides and drivers knew that they were cutting the tiger off from it's path to the water, they persisted. Some decent minded did try and stem the race, but failed miserably.

Till the tiger screwed them in crossing behing the crowd. In the jostling my jeep had been stuck at the back, will not claim all credit for staying away from the race. The tiger did an about turn and headed back the way it came, looking for space behind the jeeps to cross the road. I strongly told my driver not to start the vehicle. The drivers next to us agreed. The tiger crossed behind us.

Then started the race to the water hole. Madness. It is a large waterhole, with a circumference of about a hundred meters. The side from which the tiger would come down to the water was clear of grass and visible to anyone looking. We waited till all the jeeps left, then went to the water hole. Told my driver not to try and poke his nose, but take a position at the end of the line, my camera zoom would do what was necessary. And, it did.

Great sighting, with a bad taste in the mouth. Suppose that caused all the tigers to do the disappearing act, as no one saw anything the next day !!!

The next morning was a Khatowli. Missed a tiger in the early light. A herd of cheetal ran across. I kept insisting that the movement was not natural. There had to be a tiger there. But, the wise words were heard by the driver behind us. He stopped, and looked. And, saw the tigress sitting by the side of the road.

The afternoon of the second day was at Tala.

Pictures of what I saw.