Tsomoriri
Post for 3rd October 2022 done on 6th October. Lack of the internet.
Woke up at Sarchu to find the water I had kept as an emergency in the bathroom mug frozen. Fortunately, the kitchen was open. My bucket which had been given to the the previous evening for morning hot water, was put to use.
Departed before 0800 after a good heavy egg and bread input, along with some hot sweet tea.
The camp was a basic night halt establishment. No frills like soap or a towel. Get your own. But, the food was good, sheets clean, and quilt plus blanket combination warm.
As I passed the Sarchu township of tin sheds, a group of bikers standing by the side of the road waved me down. They wanted to know if the road to Baralacha was open. They thought I had come over from Jispa. Told them the unfortunate truth that I had also spent the night at a Sarchu camp, and had no clue as to the ice conditions in the heights.
Then was stopped at the police check post. Exchanged a few early morning pleasantries with the lone policeman taking down basic details.
My fingers were still frozen. The sun needed to get up and hot my vehicle for the inside heat to come on. The engine was not supplying enough to do the job.
The road was good, so had no complaints there. There was little traffic towards me as Leh was a few hundred kilometers away.
Soon the reality of the drive caught up with me. Reached what was called the Gatta Loops, a set of around 40 hair pin bends. The road conditions dipped dramatically. And, I caught up with a chain of lorries which were making their way to Leh, avoiding daytime onward traffic from Leh. That would have been a disaster for them.
Before reaching the Gatta Loop, barely managed any pictures as I was too engrossed in the frozen state of my fingers.
Once the climb started, it was a bit tricky. By then fingers were warm.
My estimate, around 50 lorries. One or more per straight was what I did.
To be fair, the lorry guys gave way when they could, without losing power on the gradient.
Got to LachungLa, at slightly less than 17000 feet.
The road going down was no better or worse that the up. But, less hairpin bends, more straights, steeper gradients.
Met a few vehicles coming up, possibly people who had left Leh very early. Little did they know what was in store. There was not one single tourist vehicle among them. The regular traffic had a system.
The drive down was a lot simpler as most of the lorries were behind me. Was able to look at the scenery and take a few pictures.
Reached Pang, stopped for a relaxed cup of tea. Not to be. The last couple of lorries could be seen speeding downhill. No way I was going to be dusted by the same lorries again. Finished my tea and left.
The road improved. The terrain flattenned, as any of you who have been to the Ladakh area would know. There are kilometers of plains, desert. Then some rugged mountains. Then the plains again.
Well, I was in the plains at around 16000 feet.
Reached my turn off towards Tsomoriri. This was seriously unknown roads. Confirmed the turn of with the guy sitting at the tea shop at the corner.
The road actually improved. Became narrow, but improved. Imagine my feelings, after the early hours of chasing lorries around pathetic mountain roads.
And the top disappeared.
And, the map gave up. Without a single person in sight. All i could do was drive on. There had been no turn off. I had to go off road a couple of times to find the surface. But then, I saw this.
Tourism, be my salvation. Flagged the van down, got confirmation. That was at least one part of my head.
Came across a police officer standing in the middle of nowhere. He was definitive. Told me to stay on course for 12 kilometers till I reached a village called Sumdo. Then turn right. In 40 kilometers I would be where I wanted to. And, he pointed to a road sneaking it's way up the mountains. He warned me against going up that road. I listenedt to him.
To get stopped a couple of kilometers along by a BRO guy. All that guy wanted was a few minutes of Tamil. He was from Vellore. Spent a while resting my engine, the clutch, and all that.
Reached Sumdo. Turned right. Went thru the village. There were a few Innovas parked, with the loads having lunch.
Nothing had me ready for the next 40 kilometers.
Sometimes it was like this.
Do not be fooled. Every time you went over the first gear, there was a massive hole.
Till there came a lake, around which I had to drive.
I was in no state of mind to be artistic and take pictures. My mind was frying.
Then it became like this.
Looks good from a distance. But some smart bugger had run one of those huge trailers on the road. The vibration was felt all the way to the tipe os my hair. Cursed, and more.
Then worse happened. The vans that were lunching flew past. I stayed at my first second gear.
The Tsomoriri finally showed up.
Checked in to Lake View Hotel, Tsomoriri. The guy first tried to stick me in a room underground. Got a room with a view. Had a wash and headed out.
It was almost 1600 hours and I wanted some pictures before the sun decided to sleep.
Headed down to the lake. Found a short cut across.
As I headed back to the hotel, saw my worst fears.
Hordes of Bengalis had arrived.
Sat down with some drivers to work out my route for the next day. Had a good laugh. Lightened my day.
Got conflicting routes to my next destination. But then, that was for the next day.
Got in after the hordes to eat. Food was good. Hit the sack and slept.
Comments
Post a Comment