West Sikkim

Writing this sitting in Pelling on the 22nd of November 2024.

This trip was actually to happen February of 2023. Unfortunately the Teesta floods devastated Sikkim. And, there was a repeat in September of the same year. The first happened because of a natural ice dam breaking, sending flash floods down the Teesta. The second, because of torrential rains.

Both cases, I had to cancel my plan to drive to Sikkim, and then go on to the North East.

This plan was conceived and executed after I got back from Himachal. The change I made to my thinking was that I would save drive time to and from Chennai to Bagdogra - which is the gateway to the Northern Himalayan areas, and fly in.

Landed into Bagdogra 21st November.

This was actually supposed to happen first week of November. But, the roads were not yet open, and there was some hope that the roads to North Sikkim would open post mid November.

Got confirmation on the roads on the 20th of November. That they were not yet open, but, would open in a few days.

My plan was to cover North Sikkim and then come down to the more civilized West Sikkim part of the trip. The new on the roads forced a flip in the plan. Therefore, it was West Sikkim first.

Was picked up from the Bagdogra Airport promptly by a young energetic driver. I had exited the airport as fast as I got my luggage as the aircraft had been filled with Chennai society heading to Gangtok and then to Bhutan. No way I wanted to get into a societal discussion on the efficacy of my plan versus theirs. It almost started as I was seated. I did not want continuation.

The drive out of Bagdogra was hot, dusty, and slow. Traffic was not heavy, rickshaws were all over. As were people crossing the road. 

Once the climb started thr rickshaws stopped. But, traffic in the form of cars and lorries picked up. The drive was not fun. Bad road, heavy traffic. Reached my Hotel in Pelling by 1945.

Had driven straight to a booze shop in Pelling before we turned round for the hotel. Needed my whiskey. Picked up a J&B as none of the brands I would have preferred were in stock.

Had dinner after a hot shower and couple of drinks. Good vegetarian buffet. Cabbage Peas subzi, Brinjal fry, two types of dal, Panner makhani, Rice. Ate well. Was tucked in by 2100. 

Only to be woken up by knocking as my eyes had decided to shut. 

It was for the good. The staff got me a room heater to add to the heat generated within the quilt.

Woke up this morning by 0530. By the time I fixed my coffee and peeped out if my balcony it was past 0600. 

Glorious sight of Kanchenjunga bathed in sunlight. There were clouds all around, so was quick to get my camera out.

[ JUST REALISED THAT I HAVE DELETED ALL PICTURES FOR THE DAY FROM ALL DEVICES. VERY VERY EFFICIENT. ]

Fortunately, had been a good guy and sent some pictures to my kids. 

The sight of the Kanchenjunga was fantastic. But the clouds were not as welcome.

There is something with clouds and me. Every trip into the Himalayas I have had them chasing me. In the plains, they never bother !!  

Had breakfast at 0745. Good healthy stuff with a decent amount of carbs. Had eggs, aloo paratha, upma. Good stuff.

Got picked up from the hotel at 0830. Gave the driver a slight shock when I reversed his route. Reasoned with him that all tour operators in Pelling would do the same route. Flipping it meant we stay away from the crowds. It worked.

The first stop was Khecheopalri Lake. The drive was much better that last evening. Better roads, less traffic, scenery that could be looked at and admired.

It did not take too long to get there. The parking lot was empty. Means my plan was working.

Paid the entry and parking fee. Saw a tiny pond with loads of fat fish.

Got stopped at the entrance as I was heading out, and pointed back. The lake was much deeper down the paved path that went into the wooded area. 

Headed past the banner. Took about ten minutes to reach the lake. It is a sacred lake where people from around come to pray. Was looking around when I saw a tiny board mentioning a view point.

Headed up, and got a fantastic view of the lake. The climb was definitely worth it. About 3000 steps.

 

Got back to the vehicle satisfied with my day.

Our next stop was an Orange orchard, which I was not really interested in. My interest lay more in the fast flowing waters down the side of the road. So, we stopped and climbed down. Only to find that the amazing stream had been barricaded. Too many accidents.

Headed back to Pelling to see the Skywalk. 

They have a Glass walkway that looks west from Pelling, giving a great view of the Kanchenjunga range. But, it was clouded. And, by the time I got there, drizzling. So did the walk. If tomorrow is a clear day, will do it again.

And, went up to the Gompa above, which had this lovely statue.

Next stop was the ruins of the original capital of Sikkim - Rabdentse Ruins. It is located on a hill that has valleys all around. The perfect defensive location. Unfortunately got conquered sometime by the Nepal Kingdom. 

Not much is left of the palace, but definitely worth the walk. The walk is thru dense tree cover. Will not call it a forest though.

Our last stop for the day was the Pemayangtse Monastry. Took less than 10 minutes from the moment the vehicle was parked for it to be started again.

This being my first trip into what polite people normally do, I must say was a bit wrong footed by the crowd and the noise. Cannot seem to digest man made structures, unless they lead to some awesome piece of nature.

Tomorrow is another polite day. Maybe a little less traffic, I hope.

23rd November 2024

Got up early, hoping for a cloudless sky and some golden reflection of light of the snow clad peaks. But, was not at all so.

Called my driver around 0700. Told him to relax and come around 0830 for the day. We had a plan to leave early just in case the cloud cover was not present.

Had breakfast and waited patiently for the driver to come.

It was a glorious sky, if one was not looking for something specific. Which I was. The mountain ranges with snow on them !!

Left the hotel just after 0830. Today was a relaxed day. Just some comfortable places to see. Nothing exciting.

The first was about 45 minutes away. It was called the Kanchenjunga waterfall.

 

Not a very large fall. But, I am told by the locals that during the monsoons, the entire left wall has water coming down. Can believe that as the terrain is absolutely rocky. And, there is another branch of the water fall just a few meters off the last picture.

 The next stop was just beyond a small town called Yuksom. This was famous for the Coronation Throne from the 1600s. Did that last. First had the lock opened for a lake called the Karthok Lake. It was nowhere near as spectacular as the lake I saw the previous day. But, being the good tourist paid the entry fee and walked in.

Was in and out in 10 minutes. Was extremely interested in a poster put up near the entrance. Which, on enquiry, was told that it had no connection to the lake.

The Otters in the poster were found in the upper reaches, where I am to go tomorrow. Hopes can always be held high.

Our next stop was the Dubdi Monastery. This was not too far from Yuksom.

It was a decent climb up to the monastery, as it is for most of them. Small, compared to some others. There was a family function taking place. But, no one objected to us wandering in and around.

 

Spent about 30 minutes around the monastery, before we cam back to the road to head to the next spot.

This was back towards Yuksom. On the way there is a smaller place called Chongda. Both these are quiet towns, ideal for people who just want to do nothing. The roads have walk ways. The entire surrounding is tree lined. Not much traffic flows. It is peaceful.

Went thru Yuksom to the Coronation Throne of Norbugang. Will leave it to you to read up.

 

The tree behind the throne is massive. There was no detail on age. Nor do I have any knowledge in that direction. But, it keeps going up. Given that the coronation was done in 1641, all I can do is assume the tree was either there or was planted then. In either case, it is at least just a bit less than 400 years old. The tree is called Sang in the local language.

Headed back to Pelling by 1200. Got in for lunch. Went to the same place as yesterday. Realized the cook had changed when the food arrived. It was still good, but the spice levels were up by 50 percent. 

Got back to the hotel by 1430, for a cup of sweet coffee.

And waited till sunset for the clouds to move. No luck.

Tomorrow is a different day. We head out into the Kanchenjunga National Park for a easy walk. Which could last anywhere between 4 to 6 hours. 

Obviously that area - the Dzongri Goetcha La area - is famous for treks, as the map below shows.

24th November 2024

Got up nice and early at 0530. Two reasons. One, wanted to get the golden reflections on the ice clad heights. Two, my driver had promised to come by 0700 to head out for our day's trek.

Well, the mountain tops were clouded over for a while. But cleared just enough to satisfy my greedy heart,

 

Like I said, greedy heart. The one thing I can take as much as I get is nature. Any variety.

Waited till 0700, then called the driver. Guy was on is way, along with the trek guide. Left the hotel by 0730.

We had to head back to Yuksom for the trek. Got in there by 0930. Had a quick breakfast.  Organized lunch at the guide's aunt's house. Time for lunch was left open. Bought some biscuits, just in case.

The walk started next to the aunt's house. We were climbing from the word go.

The entire trek lasted three and a half hours. We covered eight kilometers and climbed 80 stories ( according to the health app on my phone ).

The route we took was on the Goecha La trek route. Treks here last up to eight days, and climb upto 3500 meters. They are well organized with guides, camp sites, tents, toilet tents, pack mules. All one has to do is walk.

The distance we did today was about 80 percent of day one. 

Called it a day for multiple reasons. The first being the high stone steps on the track which were killing my knees. The second was that the trek was very different from what I had done. This was a track to a village in the higher reaches which had been strengthened for trekkers. It hugged a mountain face, along the River Rangit. And, it stayed that way for the first two days. 

The distance we did was fun. Hard work. Loads of sweat, even in that temperature, and, at that altitude.

 

End of an hour of sweat and toil, we came to this bridge. On the other side was the official entrance to the Kanchanchunga National Park. 

There was a great spout of water coming down the mountains, and flowing below the bridge.

 

We did not see any wild life during our walk. Except some goats that blocked the path on our way back.

 

As you will see, that was it. All you see as you huff and puff, up and down the mountain side.

It was a case where the destination was far more important than the journey. Against my soul !! 

Tried to catch every break in the trees to open my mind to keep going. Given my destination was lunch back at Yuksom !!

 

Had some pack mules go by, carrying supplies for a group that was somewhere on the path.

My guide saw my frustration. My knees started talking. So we turned around.

 

Had some excellent home cooked lunch. Back in hotel by 1500. My t-shirt was still wet from sweat.

Tomorrow I head to Gangtok.

Just heard that the North is still not open. So, some alternates are being worked out. Adventure ahead !!