Gnathang Valley and Phadamchen

 Being written on the 29th of November while waiting for my flight to Chennai.

26th November 2024

Departed Gangtok by 0930. Driver got stuck in city traffic. Exited using a less used road, with a steep gradient. Met up with the main road traffic in a bit.

We were headed to the Gnathang Valley. Distance wise, not very far.

Stopped to have our permit printed. The application and issue is online. It needs the vehicle and driver details. Apart from the passenger detail. The road we were taking went past Nathu La.

Worked on the driver's mind to curb his natural tendency of allowing the weight of his right foot to decide the pace of the journey. Then explained to him that the pleasure of the journey should be absolute. The destination could be enjoyed when we reached.

Traffic was not too heavy. We stopped to have the permit checked and signed.

The scenic beauty of the place cannot be described. Any drive in the Himalayan region fills one with exhilaration. It is simpler for me to just put out some of the pictures.

That is the Tsomgo Lake, where tourists stop and have a Yak ride. Did the ride over a decade back. More out of a desire to give the owners some business than for the pleasure of sitting on a Yak.

That is the Elephant Lake, called so as it has what looks like a trunk and a body with a tail, just like an elephant. There was a crowd of local kids on bikes having some fun, with loud Nepali music and dance.

 

We went above the snow line by 1230. Had taken the precaution to keep the warm layers accessible before departure. Did the needful of piling them on.

 We had to turn off the main road to get to the Gnathang Valley. Had to wait a bit as the army was helping pull a local driver and his Mahindra Camper back onto the road. It had been driven off the road by the tipsy driver. The job was done. The driver was told to stay away from the wheel for a bit before trying to drive again. Given that we headed down the road, no clue if he listened.

 

That is the village where the homestay was. Reached and had hot lunch. Dal, Rice and an aloo sabji. 

The room was warm, multiple blankets. Most important, had a clean attached western style toilet. Made sure the bucket was filled, as I did not want to get stuck with an iced up pipe.

Went out to enjoy the valley.

 

It was getting cold with the wind picking up. Then it started snowing. Had to head back to the room and change the jacket I was wearing to the waterproof variety. Grabbed a cup of hot tea while doing that.

That is the cook cum service staff, called Chotu. Originally from the Dooars, has been here for the last 4 years. Works with patience and a smile.

The snow kept coming down. Not hard, but like a drip. Decided to stay in the warmth of the kitchen, as it was heading for sunset. Which happens by 1700. 

The evening was fun. Carried my bottle to the service room by 1830. The drivers were sitting around a locally made fire place.

Dinner was at 2000. Had enough to drink, slowly, with hot water. Enjoyed the conversation with the drivers. Though much went over my head, as they talk Nepali. Ate well. Slept even better.

Till 0030. The people in the room above mine started yelling. Then again at 0200, 0330 and 0400. The night sleep was completely messed up. The Bengali family had arrived late, squabbling as they got out of their vehicle. That squabble continued thru the evening. And, thru the night. The owner of the homestay who lives above their room, told me she stamped her feet to get them shut up.

27th November 2024

Crawled out of bed by 0600. Looked out to check on the sun. Not too bad. East was to the left. The faint light in the sky was a good sign.

Ans, the clouds came along. The cloud layer here confused the hell out of me. The higher layers moved east to west. The lower heavier dark layers moved west to east. So, basically it was clouds all over.

 

The villagers worked at the Border Roads work locations. Trucks that dropped them in the evenings by 1630 parked the night, and loaded up in the mornings. This was around 0745.

That is the vehicle I came in. Glass all iced up.

And, that is my breakfast. Maggie noodles with onions and cabbage. But no Maggie masala !!

Headed out again as the sun was peeping. And, there was no sign of my driver. Our drive was a couple of hours, downhill. So, there was no hurry.
 

The picture of the Yak trying to get into the shack has a tale. 

As I was minding my business in the openness of the valley, a local came along. During the conversation learned that he owned a Home stay. And, all the Yak and horses that were grazing. The two yak that were trying to get into the shack were actually following him. They came running towards him as he walked onto the field. Young animals, got from Arunachal for breeding.

Believe he lost a yak the previous week to a snow leopard in the higher reaches of the mountains. Made me happy that the wild still remained untouched by the growth of tourism.

This valley shuts itself down end of December. Opens again when the roads open up. 

Not surprised. It was already cold with the wind blowing. Could understand what it was like with heavy snowfall and stronger winds. Water would freeze.

The guy I spoke to told me that though no tourists came up, he stayed on in the valley. he had more investment than just the Homestay. 

The driver had to be summoned. We left by 0930.

I had assumed that the place we were going to was Zuluk. Actually, the Homestay was well past Zuluk in a place called Phadamchen.

The clouds follow me into the mountains. And, stay away in the plains !!

 

Got to the Homestay at Phadamchen in time for a welcome hot bath and lunch. Food was excellent in that it while it was still dal and sabji, the sabji was made differently. 

My room had a balcony. Sat out in the sun for a while. Fell asleep. With the great lunch in me, and, all that noise the previous night. 

Shook the laziness off and went for a walk.

The Homestay !! On a curve, overlooking a forested valley. 

Decided to settle into my room, and do some catching up with the blog. Ate early. Again, the food was good. Saag, which in the hills they use in abundance. And, some well roasted aloo.

28th November 2024

Was up early.

 

Left for Siliguri at 0900. Lovely drive. Even though the roads were badly damaged. There was major evidence of last year's landslips. Traffic after a point was butt to nose. Yet, the drive was good !!!

Crossed or drove alongside multiple rivers. The Rangpo, The Rangit and The Teesta. Every road that was alongside a river had been damaged. The soil below the road had been washed away, bring entire stretches down. That the roads were back operating was brilliant work. That tourists complain on quality of road shows how little they understand about the vagaries or power of nature.

 

That is for a rail line to Nathu La. From the plains. Imagine saving in transit time. Reduction in traffic on the highway. Brilliant work, with no noise.

 Entered West Bengal to get next to the Teesta.

 

Stopped for an early lunch. Had a vegetarian thali. Same Dal and Sabji. But, quality was bad, compared to the great food in Sikkim.

Got to my hotel early evening. 

My flight was the next afternoon - the 29th of November. A cyclone was approaching Chennai. Hopefully it would hold off. The clouds must have heard me complaining about the lack of in the plains.

Great trip. Will be coming back to cover Lachung and Lachen. Maybe March 2025. Thinking of either driving myself, or flying into Phakim.

And, use the same Travel facilitators !!