North East November 2025 - Pre Kaziranga
11th November 2025
Departed Chennai by air, mid day. That is a change for me. Fortunately morning routine kept me busy.
Air India Express. Had booked Seat 2C. Because of change in aircraft type, that got changed to Seat 5C. Got to the airport. Checkin told me that I was over weight. First time. My daughter was sending Deepavali bakshanam across. Juggled stuff between check in and carry on, to balance weight. Managed successfully to check in without paying extra.
Flight was an hour late. At the boarding gate, my seat was changed again, to Seat 6A.
Realised later that it was done because Seat 5D was a wheel chair case. Her daughter was a heavily accented nasty, So meek me got pushed.
Was served some hot idli, upma and vadai, with sambhar. Good stuff.
Flight landed. Overheard Seat 6B tell Seat 6C to wait for wheel chair. I politely asked them to get up and move. Had seen them go to toilet a few times. No way they were disabled. Nor was Seat 5D disabled in any way. Just a means to jump a queue. So the 6s walked down the ramp, then got on to the wheel chairs !!! Pieces of shit.
Checked into Peepal Tree Inn. Nice Hotel.
12th November 2025
Next morning went to the Bhramaputra river front, which had been done up recently. Spent an hour.
Well laid out. It had these designated areas for different plants. Also had children play area, work out stations, music stations.
Post breakfast, went to the old market to buy some stuff requested by my daughter. Got back for lunch.
Left for Shillong soon after.
Drove into what I felt was a serious traffic situation. But learnt that it was less than normal.
We reached after dark. That in this part of the country means 1700 hours. Absolute shock to the mind which relates darkness to post 1900 hours.
13th November 2025
Departed out towards Balat, where my kids had some work.
Couple of hours before that, dropped most of our luggage off into our resort at Mawsynram.
Spent half an hour taking in the view offered.
Reached our destination near Balat by 1000 hours.
There had been reports of a group of elephants coming in to area. The Forest department wanted some advice on dealing with the entire situation - the possible conflict, the possible damage.
Spent a better part of the day between multiple villages. Had lunch made up of luchis and bhaji at one village.
People were not worried, just anxious. Believe this was the first time in decades that elephants had wandered this way.
Stayed away from discussions. Took pictures where possible.
As you can see, we were at the border with Bangladesh, with the fencing on the left.
Went to a few villages. The community leaders were there for interaction.
By the time we headed back to our resort it sunset time.
That means around 1630. Sunset over Bangladesh.
Got to the resort at Mawsynram. Discovered the cottages had a new system of sliding door locks. The one on the left locked from the outside. The one on the right from the inside. Meant that when we retired for the night and wanted our doors locked, we first entered from the left. Then unlocked the right to step out to lock the left door from outside ( fortunately a padlock ). Then came back in from the right, and locked the door. To head out, the reverse was done.
Food was below fair.
14th November 2025
Was up early. Sun shines brightly at 0430 hours. Got my coffee at 0600. Sat out in the sun. Contemplated the brilliant design of my room door.
The resort is perched on the edge of a ridge. Perpetual breeze blowing. Must get cold in winter.
Headed ot to a eco camp site that was being set up in Mawkasyn. This was to attract tourism from eco friendly people, who enjoyed being one with nature. The local community would benefit from the tourism.
There was provision for tent accommodation, and slightly more comfortable cottages.
The views and short treks were absolutely amazing.
Headed back to Mawkasyn for breakfast. Had eggs and maggie. Others had eggs and chicken fried rice. Rice goes with every meal.
By the time we got back to the resort, it was time to check out.
Headed back to Shillong. Got stuck at the back of a massive traffic jam about 30 kilometers before we reached town.
Shower, some good malt, food, and, sleep.
15th November 2025
Headed back to Guwahati post lunch. Before that we just sat back doing nothing.
Lunch was Khasi food, at a small local eatery. The place opens at 1100 hours. Food is finished by 1330 hours. We walked. Created at appetite. Reached by 1245.
We were already at the end of the Khasi fried rice called Jadoh. Shared a plate between four, along with plain rice, vegetables, and a pork dish which was basicall chopped pork boiled with lime and spice, called Dokhlekh.
Was dark by the time we got into Guwahati. Does not say much as the sun sets at 1630.
In time for a hot shower to wash off the dust, and hot dinner.
16th November 2025
Had breakfast with my daughter before heading out to Manas National park, by 0830.
Reached Smiling Tusker Resort by 1130 hours near the Bansbari gate. Well laid out place with two levels of cottages. One reasonable, the other expensive. Took a reasonable one. Was the only guest at the resort.
Went for a Safari into Bansbari after lunch. Has very little hope of seeing anything.
Drove to a meadow to see this collection of herbivores.
Sat there watching them for a while, when this new player entered the field. He obviously belonged to the group.
Another tusker came onto the scene, from the opposite side. This guy was alone.
The lone tusker had also stepped up.
And, the lone tusker just kept moving towards the group.
The group tusker turned and ran. Have the movie. Just too large to upload.
The loner stayed here for a while, stating dominance. Then tried to mingle with the group. They turned away from him, and started heading away, to our right. The loner moved parallel to them for a while. The group tusker trailed behind.
Conflict in the jungle.
Last view of the two tuskers, at opposite ends of the meadow.
It was great,
Rest of the safari was polite.
The Water Buffalo. Considered by some extremely dangerous.
Very satisfying.
Decided to do the same range the next morning.
Had Boro Pork Curry and rice for dinner. Slept early.
17th November 2025
Headed out on the jeep at 0550.
The day was not as exciting as the previous day. The one factor that had me going the previous day was the elephant drama.
The Bansbari range post monsoon is not conducive to sighting anything that is not on the road, or on a meadow. Or not big enough to be seen over the growth.
The brush is overgrown, the grass is high. All this is dry, and burns in January. February would be a great time to visit Manas.
So, had to look to the trees.
Khalij Pheasant
Capped Langur
Pied Hornbill
These Rhinos were in the afternoon, when I went for a walk along the road at the edge of the park.
As was this peacock trying desperately to impress the three peahens.
This was much better.
Got back to the cottage for a hot bath, some liquids, followed by great solids. Slept early.
18th November 2025
Was up by 0600. Went for a walk by 0630. Was accompanied by this youngster, walking two paces behind me. Think they felt protection was needed.
Went to the Bhuyanpara range in the afternoon. Left the resort at 1300. The range gate was a 45 minute drive away. The road took us east, then north. In effect we entered the Manas park from the eastern end.
What hits when you go in is the extent of the grassland. Tall grass till you can see. Hides anything and everything inside. But in February, this would be a paradise for sighting wildlife of all variety.
Nothing was seen thru the drive to the northern most point, which was at the start of the Bhutan mountains.
On the drive back, we stopped at a watch tower.
That was the first sight we saw. The back of an elephant. Gives you an idea of the grass and overgrowth.
That one sight kept getting better.
To finally, this.
There were between 10 and 15 elephants in that group, including calves.
On the other side, these were waiting.
The drive back to the gate was a revelation on the elephant population.
The sun was setting. The terrain was tall grass. And, every 10 meters or so, we saw elephants. In ones, twos, and small groups.
Taking pictures was of no use, as all that was visible was the highest part of the elephant - back, or head, or trunk. But, great drive back.
Imagine, when the grass is burnt in January, and fresh grass starts growing in February, this would be a paradise.
19th November 2025
Drove out at 0600 towards Kaziranga. This was a 10 day stay. Probably one or two safaris. Will update as that happens.
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