Pangong

 Post for 4th September, started on the 6th.

Was woken up by loud Bengalis discussing lack of water. 

Well, I had filled my bucket. Icy water, but made sure I got frozen, but clean.

In winter, in the hills, taps are shut off to prevent bursting due to icing. 

Did my bit. Finished my stretches. Heard the hot water flow start. Had left that tap open as soon as I got up. Beat the rush. Loaded the vehicle. Went and sat with the drivers in the kitchen, waiting for breakfast to get done.

By now all knew where I was headed. There was a massive difference of opinion on route. That which was suggested the previous evening, was shot down as too dangerous as it was too unused. I listened, drank tea.

Ate Poha and eggs as soon as they were served. Departed before 0800.

Did the stretch to Sumdo much faster, obviously hurting by the comments on my delicate handling of my vehicle.

Turned off at Sumdo towards Mahe.

And then had the best drive that I can remember. Did feel lost once in a while when maps got lost. But then, that is part of this journey.

The road was brilliant. The terrain lovely.

Initially in the plains, winding roads , stream running by, colourful plants.

 Drove in and past Mahe. Reached the left turn I had been asked to look out for. There was an army post at the corner. Consulted them on directions. They pointed left. I turned.

And, maps got lost a little into the road. This is Navimaps. Works offline with GPS.

It was like driving into no man's land. Not one vehicle for an hour. Brilliant terrain. Climbing, twisting, interesting, to say the least.

It had everything one can ask for. Good roads, lovely driving conditions, gradients, scenery, and no oncoming traffic. 

 

With all this, I still had the niggle in the back of my head on the right road. The one advantage I had now was that I had enough fuel in my tank to turn if I had to.

Then I got to a point where my doubts on direction were cleared. Got to a lake called Yaya Tso, which one of the drivers had mentioned.

It was a really exhilarating drive.

There had been a gradient, a few bends. But before I knew it I was at Kaksang La at almost 18000 feet.

 

As the drive down towards Chushul starts the lake that comes up is Mirpai Tso. 

 

As you descend past the lake, you hit the flats.

Then you are into Chushul, and past.

Before you know what is happening, Pangong Lake is in sight.

The next 30 kilometers the drive is on the banks of the lake.

 It is a beautiful drive. Best part is that there is no traffic coming at you. This is not the tourist run.

The last time I had been to the Pangong lake was in 2004. We were the only people at the lake. Apart from the Army camp. 

Now, there are around 5 villages that have come up. Mainly catering to the tourist population.

Checked in to Gongma Residency in time for lunch.

 Had little to do but sit in the sun and look out at the lake.

A Honda SRV came in with three males, two females and one Labrador. Poor dog, being cramped.

Then a group of bikers came in. Got talking to them over dinner. They were from Singapore. Had been coming here for the last decade.

Met them again at breakfast before I left.

Was interesting, talking geopolitics , sweetened pork and the different types of food in their country.