Corbett , Rajaji, and Haridwar
2nd March 2025
Departed Pilibhit after the morning safari that had me seeing a swimming Tigress.
Got back to the room by 1015. Was on the road by 1045 with a packed breakfast.
These guys make an omelette sandwich by frying the bread on top of the egg. Gets a one side cooked bread, and one side over fried egg.
Anyways, it was consumed in the first 15 minutes.
The drive was uneventful. Traffic was not too bad.
Till I reached Haldwani.
Traffic kicked up. There were civilian traffic volunteers. While stuck at one crossing asked one of the volunteers. Was told it was an annual Sat Sangh of some Baba whose name I did not catch.
Traffic stayed bad for then next hour, then cleared up.
Went past the safari gates for the Corbett National Park by 1400.
Took another hour to reach Sterling Resorts.
Excellent location, as usual.
Asked about a bar while checking in. Was directed to take a one kilometer walk to the village, which boasted of a English Wine Shop.
Did just that around 1630. Got a decent whiskey.
Had a couple of drinks before I went down to the restaurant. Spoke to the chep who promised me a low spice Kumaon style mutton curry called Bhaddu Mutton.
Came back to the room to relax. Food got delivered in a while. Excellent stuff. Polished.
Went down and spoke to the chef again. Told him the next day should have a vegetarian dish for lunch, and a Fish for Dinner.
3rd March 2025
Had to drive back 25 kilometers to the Bijrani Gate for my safari at 0630.
Left at 0500. There was traffic on the narrow winding forest road. Reached by 0600.
First gypsy in.
Wild Boar in the distance.
The Bijrani range goes around a dry river bed. Many years back have had the pleasure of seeing a huge Elephant herd on the river bed. And, seeing a tigress with a kill in the hills around.
We keep meeting this river bed at various places, as we traverse the terrain.
Bijrani is a mix of Sal forest, dry river bed, grassland, and something akin to a rain forest because of the large quantity of ground water.
Great forest to just drive around, if you are not chasing a particular wild animal.
My wish today was for a Elephant. Saw loads of evidence, in terms of dung, broken trees, and mud banks where they had climbed or gone down.
The next hope was for a Tiger. Saw pug marks walking into the forest. Not an alarm call thereafter.
The guide and driver did not stop for more than a few minutes at any place. Did their bit in trying to get me a sighting.
We did see three types of deer - Spotted, Sambhar and Barking.
Saw the Crested Serpent eagle.
Out of the forest by 1000.
Headed back to Sterling after fueling up.
Lunch was Bhata daal and chapattis. That is Black Soybean.
Was sitting outside my room in the sun post lunch. Tought I had a good view of what was happening.
A Rhesus macaque sneaked into the room. Heard a noise. Shooed him out. He had grabbed all the sugar packets.
Relaxed a bit in the afternoon. Was sitting outside again around 1630. Had the room door ajar. A big macaque went past me. Thought he'd carry on, as he sat and looked at me, then the door. Then the bugger pushed the door open. Got up and shooed him. He slapped my pant as he headed away, not too far. He then sat outside my room glaring at me. Then on the ledge, as if waiting for me to leave the door open again.
Gave up on me in a bit and went elsewhere.
Tomorrow I head out of here to Rajaji National Park, near Haridwar.
4th March 2025 ( written 7th March 2025 )
Departed Sterling as it was still dark. Had a long run.
As I headed out, hit a road block.
Came down from Corbett to Kashipur and turned West.
The roads remained reasonably good.
Reached Haridwar by 1000. There is a bridge that takes you left into Haridwar. And, the old road that takes you to Rishikesh that goes straight on. Wanted to fuel up. So asked the police at the chowki where the next fuel station was. When I heard it was at Rishikesh, cursed.
Had passed a fuel station wrong side of the road a few kilometers back. Getting in and out of Haridwar was madness, given time of day for traffic. Had not turned in as it is a two lane highway with a divider.
Headed back. Fueled up. Came back past the police chowki onto the Rishikesh road.
Passed the Rajaji Tiger Reserve gate - also called Chilla Gate, because of the Chilla Dam.
Drove on, past the gate. Crossed the dam and turned right along the fast flowing canal.
Few kilometers on, the road turns right over the canal.
There is an immediate left, that goes on to Rishikesh. My road was straight on. A mud road.
Drove along a few kilometers till I came to a forest check post. By now, my belief in maps was on the downward slope. Decided on human intelligence. Was directed to the left fork. Another mud road, leading thru a wooded area.
Remember, all this is just in and around the Rajaji National Reserve forest.
This is what I drove on for the next 15 minutes.
It wasn't as bad as it looks, if it does at that. Maps was dead. There were barely discernible tire treads that I took as a road. And, not a vehicle in sight.
Crossed a fast flowing stream multiple times.
That is a burnt out car. It has a DL registration. No solution to the mystery, as I did not ask. There was so much more.
Just past that, I came to the Vindhya Vasini Temple. Humans were there.
The place I was staying was not too far from here.
Met a couple of bird enthusiasts walking on the path, from a resort nearby.
Got lost a bit while getting to my Resort. But got there I did. Human intelligence. Asked a couple of times, as that area after the temple had houses, resorts, and a village further down.
Had lunch. Relaxed. Then went for a walk.
The place I stayed in was off the main river bed, to the right. up the dry bed above.
That dog was from the place I stayed. Seemed to have adopted me. Ran all over the place, while staying in touch.
Headed back in a bit.
Crashed early.
Have to get to the Chilla Gate by 0615. Driving that riverbed is going to be fun.
05th March 2025 ( written 7th March 2025 )
Up by 0445. Into my vehicle and on the river bed by 0515.
Immediately lost. The road to the resort entrance is a sharp turn left, up a slope.
Came down the slope and did not turn right immediately. Took me a couple of minutes to figure that out as there were no tracks. Turned right till I found the tracks and turned onto them.
It was dark, pitch dark. Only light was from my headlights. But, going was not bad. Got cocky, I think.
Went past the Temple, into and out of the stream. Into the open area after the gap in the mountains. And, came out all wrong.
There were no treads or tracks. Nothing. Stopped. Drove slowly in a tight circle. Was completely and totally off track.
Yes, not more than couple of hundred meters from the temple, but in which direction. That my vehicle was a Thar, helped. Stones, small or large, made little difference in my hunt.
10 minutes later, I was standing out of the vehicle peering for hope.
And, it came. In the form of fast moving headlights headed towards me from the temple.
Got the vehicle started and pointed towards the headlights. He turned off at least 50 meters before where I was. Had missed that completely.
Got on track after a search. It was required, as the exit from the stream was narrow and headed into the forest.
Found it. Then drove up the track. Barely 20 meters in, saw a Jungle Cat run across. Fantastic. Always a reason for anything.
Got to the forest checkpost without further craziness by just sitting a few car lengths behind the vehicle in front.
The checkpost was closed. So the guy in front honked, woke the guard up. We got questioned on purpose and the gate was opened.
The entire drive is on video. But, have no way of uploading.
Got to the Chilla Gate by 0600. It was still dark.
Located my driver cum guide.
Headed into the forest. It was cold.
The day was a blank in terms of fancy sightings. Got a great terrain. Lovely grassland. Lots of water. Lots of variety of trees. Undergrowth is heavy.
Thoroughly enjoyed the drive. Not many gypsies at that time.
And so, we drove along. Stopping at times to listen for calls. At times to look at where the Tiger had walked on the road, the elephants had been, or, the sloth bear had run across.
Just being in a forest, with nature, expecting it to happen at any time. That is life. The uncertainty, the excitement.
That's the Black Shouldered Kite. Or, maybe someone can correct me !!
The Pied Hornbill
While listening and enjoying the forest, had been thinking at my stupidity.
The place I had chosen for the safaris was an hour away, thru some crazy driving. That the driving was fun, is a separate issue. Haridwar is closer.
Decided to stay the night where I was. Check out the next morning and move in to a hote in Haridwar, post safari.
Called Hotel Trimurti. The lady at the other end confirmed the room while asking me politely to pay an advance, and that the room would be available only at 1300. Not 1100. Broke both.
Got back to my place in the riverbed. Made sure I noted the distance and feel of the road for the next morning.
Had lunch. Told the guys where I was staying of my new plans.
Headed out by 1330. Took a snap of every water crossing.
Got to Chilla Gate and in by 1430.
Had zero expectations. Because by now I had heard two statements.
The first, Tigers are rare sights.
The second, Elephants move only late evening. Means around 1730. I had to get back to the forest checkpost by 1800, else could get locked out.
So, went in very easy in my mind.
My camera was in the bag, zipped.
This I took with my phone.
Was looking at the tree line to my right, when the driver said the magic word "Tiger"
I turned left, and there he was. Walking into the bush.
And, behind him was a smaller Tigress, who went into a shallow area before the bush.
Later found out it was a water hole.
As my camera was in the bag, could not get a shot of the male.
Got the female as she stuck herself out of the water hole for a brief look around. Distance was around 150 meters.
She dipped back in. The came up again.
We waited. Sure the male would come back.
And, he did.
There was obviously a way from the other side.
Because we then saw him like this.
We settled there. Waiting for them to get up, out of their comfort. Give us a full length display.
Other gypsies came. Waited a bit and left.
It was then I realised how starved these guys at Chilla were for a Tiger sighting.
We saw the Tiger pair at 1515.
By 1645, a jeep load came carrying all the drivers who did not have a ride.
By 1700 the DFO and Range officer were there.
At about 1715, the male moved.
And, left. I was certain we had disturbed them in the midst of a domestic squabble.
The forest officials drove to catch the Tiger on the other side of the grassland.
We waited for the female.
Neither were seen again that day.
Day well done.
Turned from there and headed out.
Went past the forest checkpost, waving to the guard.
When I had come in the afternoon, there had been a dead cow by the side of the track, about 100 meters from the post.
Now, this was the sight.
Got back to my room.
Asked to settle accounts. Was told a number which I could not figure out. He had reduced one day's stay. But, he had also reduced cost of two safari for the next day. Something the driver had already booked. Anyhow, paid him what he had asked. Called the driver, made sure he was there the next morning.
Crashed early.
06th March 2025 (written on 7th March 2025 )
Left the room by 0530. Did not get lost. Kept my bearings clear when I passed the temple. Turned up the forest road. No wildlife this time.
But, the cow was almost half it's size and had been turned.
Had to wake the forest guard to get the gate open. Asked him. Was told the cow had dies of natural causes. Boar and Hyena would clean the carcass in a day.
Got to Chilla Gate. Spoke to the driver about the safari booking, explained what had taken place. He looked upset, as he had already done the bookings. Assured him I'd pay him direct for the day.
My focus was now on the Elephant. Which is an evening mover in Rajaji.
This safari was purely to enjoy the forest.
Changeable Hawk Eagle
I look at the small birds also. But, rarely remember their names. Flycatcher maybe.
The way the forest pops up the unexpected.
They crossed the road in front of us.
Made they day. Just two of them, but they altered the pulse rate.
The sighting I had of an Elephant on this trip had been in Simplipal. At a distance. Nothing since.
The most basic variety of the Kingfisher. Watched him diving for fish a while.
Headed out of the park.
The driver suggested we go to another eco park called the Jhilmil Jheel. He believed that the probability of elephants there was much higher. Agreed without a thought.
It allowed me to try and get back to get a glimpse of the Ganga Aarti.
Drove into Haridwar. Finding Hotel Trimurti was easy. Loads of parking.
The lady who I spoke to grinned at me and gave me my room key. Made me pay up in full first. Looks like they had got this one room ready first. Impressed with my convincing skills.
Had lunch. Good food. Friendly staff. The chef came out and had a chat. Asked me what I wanted for the night. Told them to surprise me, as long as it had no spice.
Went down to the Ganges. Picked up a 5 liter jerrycan to take some water from the Ganges back to the kids. Had a mini bath.
My vehicle now has water from the Triveni in Prayagraj, Sarayu in Ayodhya, and, the Ganges in Haridwar.
Was supposed to meet the driver at Chandi Mata Temple on NH34. Were supposed to go from there in the gypsy.
I grabbed an auto. Was told it would take 30 to 45 minutes. Got a guy from Pilibhit, who was thrilled that I was coming from there. Had a great conversation.
Got picked up. The Jhilmill Jheel is a further 10 kilometers down the highway.
Got a Mongoose as soon as drove in. To me this is always a bad sign of further sightings.
Not sure if you can see it as it's colour is the same as the mud.
The forest we drove into was surprisingly Eucalyptus. Was told that the idiots planted it to hold back the spreading marsh, which had become dangerous to animals.
Well, the damn tree had now spread. Have not heard a single virtue. It kills all other plant around it, and, spreads fast and wide.
Not one bird was on any of these trees. Near my place in Kodi, the only bird that goes anywhere near them is the woodpecker.
We reached the edge of a massive grass land. Unlike the high grass that one sees, this looked like a well maintained gold course.
This was the Jheel from which the eco park got it's name.
Swamp Deer, or, Barasingha, in the distance.
Across the Jheel is the Ganges.
Believe this is where people come if Elephants are their choice. The big animals cross this park towards the Ganges every day. Sightings are a given.
Well, I had a timeline to get out, if I wanted to catch a glimpse of the Aarti. Extended that to 1800. Was sure all involved would understand the need for satisfaction of the soul with wildlife.
We got this Grey Hornbill as we moved away from the Eucalyptus forest.
And then, some alarm calls happened. Surprise. There were big cats here.
Got to see Elephants, twice.
The first time they crossed the road. My camera was in sleep mode, in my bag. By the time it came out, got switched on, and extended into zoom, the elephants lost patience and went into the underbrush.
That is the ONLY reason I would change my camera. Reaction time saved.
Then we got these guys.
Went out onto the Jheel.
And saw this guy.
And these cute little birds. That's a Jackal.
Believe it is mating season. And, the pairs have been chosen. May they flourish.
Waited there to watch the elephants come out of the tree line, and move to the Ganges.
Unfortunately, plans and just that.
A group of gypsies with loud humans arrived. They were in selfie mode, making enough noise to upset anyone.
No self respecting animal would show itself to them. Decided to head back.
These Spotted deer, the horses, were a show unto themselves.
And, some wild boar.
Closed the safari day with that.
The driver was nice enough to drop me off in Haridwar.
Grabbed an auto to get to Har Ki Pauri Ghat.
Was late. Fortunately. The crowds were massive. Enjoy.
It is a fantastic sight.
Headed back the hotel in an auto.
Dinner was a dish made of assorted vegetables with ground palak in cream. Excellent stuff.
Tomorrow I head south.
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