Vrindavan, Jhalawar and Ujjain

7th March 2025

Drove out of Haridwar was simple. On NH334 to Delhi within 5 minutes, though maps tried to confuse me. Ignored it.

Guys here are mad. Be careful of tractors.

Traffic was not bad at all. Choked a bit around Meerut. Tried to fish out the number of a college mate in Palwal when I saw the name come up. Couldn't get it.

Then came the expressway. First the Eastern with a speed limit of 100 kmph. Then the Delhi Mumbai expressway with a limit of 120 kmph.

Life was simple. Cruise worked beautifully.

Got to Vrindavan by 1030. Checked into Hotel Krishna Orchid.

Good room. Great food.

Tomorrow is my guided tour.

08th March 2025

Got a call late last evening from my contact for the day. Wanted to know what time I would be good to start. Stupid question to me. Said 0600. He said 0630.

At 0550 got a call from the taxi driver saying he was on his way.

He came on time. Left hotel. Got another call. From one more driver. Same travel company. This guys wanted to come at 0730.

Anyways, not my chaos.

The car I was in was the right one.

Went to Gokul. Where Krishna spent his childhood years.

Was me by a person who was my guide for that stretch. He was a local. Spent time explaining that the village around there lived on the grace of the happenings in and around Gokul.

This included a Gaushala, a ashram, a Sanskrit college, and a college for general studies. Naga Sadhus lived there. Students fees were paid for. All paid for by the trust that ran the ecosystem. Asked about finances. All done by donations. It was a beautiful place. Called Raman Rethi. This is where Krishna played as a child.

Sat down on the ground amongst the trees and had a conversation on young Krishna. The perspective of the person speaking to me was very much in line with my thought process. Will not delve deepre into the philosophical aspects.

There is a ground where people were playing, loose mud top soil.They were throwing mud on each other. Enjoying themselves. The belief is that when you come here, you do as Krishna did. Live happy.

I was asked to do a anga pradarkshanam three times to the left and three to the right. Did it willingly.

From there we went to the house where Krishna lived.

It is called the Nanda Yashoda Mahal.

They have a place where Krishna is in a cradle.

I was sat down in front of a curtain behind which the deities were. A pujari spoke to me. Very different from our own down south. But, that is a different subject.

Then he opened the curtain and the deities were there.

Krishna was in the cradle. Over him were Nandagopal and Yashoda.

The experience is very different from that in our temples in the south.

Went to the balaram temple from there. The deities and balaram and his wife, Revathi. She was supposed to be taller than him at the time of their wedding.

That done, I was dropped off at the taxi.

Was met by another person who would be with me rest of the route.

From there we went to the Krishna Janmabhoomi. Had to deposit our electronics.

This was before we droped off our phones.

There is a mosque sitting on top of the dungeons where Krishna was born.

The Birlas have built a huge temple just next to the actual Janmabhoomi. Lovely temple.

As we headed out, there was a barat coming in. Asked and was told that the people of Barasana, where Radha was from, come with band baja to the Janmabhoomi on this day. And on Janmashtami, people from here take a procession to the village of Radha. Such a beautiful continuance of history and culture.

They were all dressed and dancing.

Then walked thru the dungeous which are UNDER the mosque. One has to climb down a flight of stairs.

From there we went to the Dwarakadeesh temple.

That was a revelation.

They were singing, dancing and playing Holi.

It had started.

And there I was, in the middle.

Some kids started tossing water balloons as we headed out.

Had one of those Kachodiis as we headed to the Vrishram Ghat, where Krishna went to meditate after he killed Kamsa.

Took the blessings of Yamuna as we headed back.

Stopped at this guy to pick some pedas for home. Hope they last.

As we headed back to the taxi down the winding road, came up on this procession, all for the love of Krishna and Holi.

All dancing and singing. It is such a treat to just see people immersed in whatever makes them happy.

Tried to get a local thali for lunch. But it was too early. So, this is what I did.

Aloo parotha. With mashed pumpkin and raita. Was excellent.

Headed back to the hotel.

Restarted at 1545, thinking we would beat the crowd at Banke Bihari Temple.

But, have never ever been in a worse crowd.

Go when there is no festival. This crowd was, well a crowd.

My timing was not of my making. It happened.

Was carried in with the crowd, and deposited out by the crowd.

The crowd was in it's own self. Wrapped in Krishna. Faith carries them, and I am no one to make any statement about that. They were happy. Chanting. Women, children, aged.

Headed out from there to the Iscon temple. Which was also crowded

Went inside. And, out. My mind was not where it should be.

From there we walked to the Prem Mandir. Saw the crowd, decided it is not for me.

Vrindavan is a MUST visit.

But not during any festival that is linked to Krishna

But then, sometimes, we go when we have no clue, and the place is on our route. Like mine was.

Glad I did this.

The crowds are swelling. Holi here starts tomorrow and lasts a few days.

I head south tomorrow to Jhalawar.

09th March 2025

Longish run today. Around 460 kilometers. Actual destination is Ujjain. But that's another 200 kilometers. Pact with kids is not to be stupid and push.

Started early. Got routed onto a state highway.

State Highways are bad before sunrise. Headlights are one. The worse fact is the farm tractors that move without lights. Old days we used to have bullock carts. They atleast had hurricane lanterns hanging behind.

Got to NE4. Never done this one before. Expressway from Delhi to Mumbai. 4 Lane. Speed limit at 120 kmph. Excellent road.

But, there is a stretch of about 50 kilometers not done. So, you are routed to the old road that snakes thru the hills and across streams.

Had to do a major hustle to jump queue and one such turn, where the traffic was seriously backed up. Went behind a adventurous Rajasthan driver, off road a bit. There was a sharp left causing a problem. The bridge was narrow. Long trailers needed the space. Used that to squeeze thru.

Got back onto NE4. The inward into the bridge was backed up 10 kilometers.

Got into Jhalawar, Maan Singh Resort by 1200.

Lunch. Slept a bit.

One reason this place had been picked was the Sun Temple in Jhalarpatan, a few kilometers away.

Went at 1630.

Thru narrow streets, the market, some houses. Reached the Sun temple.

Barricaded and locked. To be opened at 1800.

A 11th century construct.

The village must have grown around the temple.

Now it's a sprawling city.

Would never had heard of it if My kids had not restricted kilometers per day.

The locals sitting on thelas ( carts ) convinced me that I should visit the Chandan Bagh. Drove past it, without realising.

Got back to the resort. Washed my windscreen. It was messed by insects in the morning.

Not decided if I'll have breakfast then leave or do what I love doing.

To Ujjain tomorrow.

10th March 2025

Last evening had what was left of my local purchase in Vrindavan.

Then went up to the bar. The place had cricket on. Decent filling of the bar.

Sat away from the screen. They had some decent whiskey. Had one with a snack for dinner.

Up for a relaxed departure.

Places with central overhead solar water heating systems are a pain. In all, you need to let loads of water run for the hot water to arrive.

In some, the guys shut the valve to the tank.

Woke the guys up early and reminded them.

Got running hot water, in a bucket. Turns out they had forgotten something or the other and the overhead had no hot water. Had no issues.

The drive was great. Not long. Under 200 kilometers.

The entire stretch had me driving thru wheat fields, on both sides. Wheat ready for harvest. The fields just rolled away from the road as far as the eye could see. Was doing an easy 60 kmph. Enjoyed the drive.

Got into Ujjain by 0930. Checked into SMB Resorts. Shady parking.

Had not planned to be in Ujjain this early. Had two nights here.

Ujjain is temples. The way the geagraphy is has them in two sectors.

Decided to do one sector right away.

Got out of the hotel, took a auto. Accepted his asking rate for the full run and drop back, as long as he brought me back past a good booze shop.

First stop was the Kal Bhairav Temple. It was crowded. But, after Banke Bihari, this was easy.

Had a good view of the deity. The crowds coming here offer prasadam in the form of flowers, sweets and alcohol. Since I was empty handed, moved on.

On the way in had noticed a shop selling lathis. Picked one up on the way out. Had been looking for a while for my vehicle. My earlier one was a seasoned piece from Kodi, made of Pear tree wood, seasoned in cow dung.

Got back to the auto, and headed for the Galdhkalika Temple.

This is a form of Durga. Supposedly a Shakti Peeth.

The crowds were much diluted.

Excellent darshan. Given the diluted crowd.

Next stop was the Bhartari caves.

Believe this was the place King Bhartari retreated to giving up all, after he found his wife was in love with someone else.

Those are the steps that you walk down to reach the caves.

The place has obviously been patched a bit. The caves been painted. But, this place goes back to the 11th century.

Those interested in the ancient must come to Madhya Pradesh. There is so much more.

Got back to the auto. Got my booze shop.

The place I stay at has an eatery. Went for lunch. Though I'd do chat stuff. But that was not looking too appetizing.

They had a south Indian thali with aloo sabzi, appalam and plain curd. Temptation. Ordered that. Got suckered.

Got a thatli with aloo sabzi north Indian style of aloo mutter with mutter removed. Instead of plan curd got raita. Ate just enough tom satisfy hunger.

Complained to manager.

Then had couple of rasagullas. Delicious.

11th March 2025

Did absolutely nothing from lunch yesterday till 1700 today. Sat in room. Ate, Slept.

At 1700 my auto picked me up.

First halt was Harsiddhi Mata Temple.

Compared to yesterday, the place was deserted. Went in and saw these two huge deepam pillars. Had seen the lighting of these on the net.

The guy up there seemed to be cleaning the individual deepam.

The darashanam was exquisite. The power was divine. Could focus on why I was there and not what was around me.

There is a smaller sthanam for Shiva. The Shiva sthanam was being cleaned by a family. The deity was not visible as the family was washing the area. They saw me. Stepped aside. I had my moment. Did a Namaskaram to them.

And then for Ganesha.

Went on to the Mahakaleshwar temple. Was told about a VIP entrance. Decided I could very well be one.