Kufri into Kaza

2nd February turned out to be a sunny day. Woke up to clear skies.

The original plan was to leave at 0700. That had got moved to 0800 the previous evening. 

Relaxed thru our morning, getting ready. Had a quick breakfast of eggs and got our luggage all ready at the entrance of the resort for a quick exit.

The sun was nice and warm. We took a gentle walk down the road. Realised before we had even taken a few steps that it was all iced up. Well, that was not really my problem as I was not driving. So, relaxed, enjoying the sun, watch the Dhuladhar range in the distance and the Kinnaur range a bit closer.




By 0830 I was fretting as there was no sign of our guide cum driver, Kesang.  Called him. Learnt that traffic out of Shimla was choked. Which was not really startling news. 

So, we walked a bit more, admiring the scenery a lot more. Watching some playful pups slip around the road.

30 minutes later he called again to inform me that he was clear of the traffic and was on his way.

Then there was silence for a while.

About half an hour later we got the reason. Around the same place my daughter had switched vehicles the previous evening, police were stopping vehicles because of the ice. Only 4*4 vehicles were being allowed to go up. 

Kesang had to put chains on the rear tyres before he was allowed thru. Finally came thru by 1030, only because he gave a police official a life close by. 


Then started an absolutely exciting drive. It had everything. 

First was a climb up to Narkhanda.

There was ice on the road all the way to Narkhanda. The ride was brilliant for us passengers. Tremendous beauty. This was just like the Kashmir scenery, pine trees covering the hillside.






Entered Narkhanda by 1400. It had taken us close to 4 hours for the run. This meant there was no way we would get to Tabo for the night. That in itself was not an issue.

Kesang checked the vehicle as he filled fuel.

And, discovered we had a problem. The vibration, caused by the chain on the rear suspension, had caused a holding nut to fall of. This caused the rear suspension to shift a bit. The town was snowed in, so we had to drive on.

We crawled even slower downhill to a place called Kingal. A tiny shop mechanic seemed to understand the problem. And, had a nut close enough to the required size to fix the problem. Required jacking up the vehicle and heaving the body back to place.

Once that was done, pace picked up.

Had lunch at 1700. I took the wheel as Kesang looked exhausted. Handed the wheel to my daughter once headlights started.

Kesang took over closer to 2000.

Reached Spelo for dinner and bed. Nice Hotel on the highway. Good food, clean sheets, working geyser.

Our day was made when we sighted a Red Fox cross the road ahead of us a few kilometers before Spelo.

Went to sleep exhausted.

Departed 3rd February by 0730.

Once again we had a clear day. The forecast had been for some more dark clouds.

Lovely drive. Easy day, not far to go.

Road was easy to drive on. River Sutlej by the side. Snow clad mountains at every turn. And, the colours of the mountainside, the patterns, the types of soil. Mind blowing. 

It was -9 Degrees Celsius when we left.








The last picture is the confluence of the Sutlej and the Spiti.

Till then we had driven by the banks of the Sutlej. 

Now we would be following the Spiti to Kaza.








We stopped for tea at Tabo. Another beautiful little town in the valley with loads to do. There are caves up the mountainside, great walks by the river, and ice climbing in winter at a frozen waterfall.








It started snowing as we entered Kaza. Kesang was happy. Said the region desperately required snow, else the next season would be bad for the apple crops.

My concern was for the Snow Leopards. Hopefully they would be more revealing with the fresh snow.

Had late lunch at 1500. Then went for a walk in the gently falling snow to test our limbs. We had been driving for two days. And, to test our many layers.

Walked down to the market, bought some chocolate. The temperature was -10 degrees C. 

Came back in the same state as we left. 

Tomorrow is a easy start.

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